With a 3d printed or CNC’d endcap? Just take off the PU sleeve and use the screw holes to mount the pulley (50$)
The maytech hubs are decent, and the other components would be pretty HQ. Wouldn’t this be a $350 Dual direct drive? Has anyone done this? The hubs are only 30A, but you could probably send more current to them considering they would be cooled easily. There might even be more powerful hubs with a similar axle setup that would make a more powerful setup possible. I’ve seen a few threads talking about the hub adapters, but they dont have an axle going through the wheel which is something I don’t trust at all.
Not to say it can’t be done, but it’s a lot of work and you would have to redo the mounting of the motor to the truck hanger. You would want it inward on the truck to reduce overall length, and unless you have the tools and experience to re machine the mounting, it will cost at least that much to have the inner part of the motor re-machined.
Maytech generally makes decent motors. But 30a is not the greatest. That might even be too much for them, as everyone likes to exaggerate their numbers.
I am converting the MAD hubs to direct drive. I only have the Pulley left to do it. As @evoheyax said you will need a lot of work. Of course it also depends on how stealthy and well made you want to make it. Can be done quite fast but your axle will end it up being really wide and overall look not worth it the hassle. Of course if you are ready to put a lot of time then do it! It’s a DIY forum, we are all here to build stuffs.
One of the benifits of diy is the ability to make things far cheaper than buying stuff off the shelf. In a project like this, expect waste and replacement parts here and there, so it may not end up being $350 but more like $500. At that point, you are starting to get close to a pre-made direct drive.
I wish that loftey I think it was called would of worked out. I don’t trust them anymore after they said it’s normal for their trucks to bend… That is VERY scary for any manufacturer to try to normalize. Solid through trucks do not bend normally. When they do, it’s obvious it’s a problem.
I don’t see a printed interface between the hanger and the motors taking that kind of rotational stress
Getting a better baseplate/hanger than what comes with the China kit sells as a complete does make sense given all the bending/breaking horror stories…
But in fairness for an experiment on the cheap like this you would be better filing down a hanger known to be fairly strong, dependable & common like an e-Caliber rather than taking a punt on $150 precision trucks