Questions for my first build- Lightweight Cruiser

ok, thanks. What kind of heat would I expect with vesc limiting amps to 25 from battery that is 8s1p with basen cells. Would a battery heatsink solve any issues? Does vesc heat up from limiting amps? Dont wanna destroy it.

Dont know. But the heat isnā€™t your main problem. I do not think your board will have enough power to climb any hills without your esc hitting the low voltage limit. If you draw too much power you can sag your cells to 20V and your esc would shut power down, depending on the discharge curve, this could happen at 50% capacity like it happens to one of the other guys here or worse.

@scrant made a 10s1p build that seems to be working great for him. Its the same cells and i dont think he gets any voltage sag. Does the 8s vs 10s make a big difference with 2 extra cellsā€¦ its the same parallel, 4500mah, 30 amps.

I deleted my comment because I thought we are in a different thread and talk about a 10S4P pack. With a 1P li-ion pack you push the limits I guess. But for a cruiser it should be doable. But more cells would be better. If you want to go for 26650 cells then I can recommend some cells which are realy cheap and perform great.

In the endless sphere forum they are very surprised how good the cells are. For example they ae rated at 5000 mah but by tests they mostly reach 5400 mah. And the discharge curves are normal. If you would have them in a 10S2P then it should be fine for any cruising.

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2 extra cells in this case is 20% more power so maybe?

He most likely does sag but doesnā€™t care/doesnā€™t notice, Sag is something that develops over time ur pack will be ok for a week maybe more but after a while it will fail on you and ur cells will be all over the place, I get what a 16 year old mind like ur own understands and basically itā€™s like this the more cells you have, the more current( which is the power for ur board)the more heat you have, you want less current distributed amongst ur cells during load, so get more cells with lower internal resistance id highly recommend a 10s 3p he4 pack because resistance wise he4 are better than 25r

Ok, i am ordering some more cells to make a 2p pack. Hopefully it solves the issues ,and according to a calculator I can get about 15 miles of range that I probably wont need!!! In a more serious note i need a charger for my 8s 60 amp bms. I need 32 volts i think, and i prefer 2-4 amps to charge quickly. I cant find any that are reasonably priced, if you guys know where to get a cheap good one let me know. Links pls!!!

2p is still voltage sag

2P is fine for a cruiser.

great build; Iā€™m also looking to build a cruiser; will go with 12S2P / 190kv / 15/32T / Bustin Bonsai deck (29ā€™)

So all the supplies for the batteries came in. 8s2p basen 26650. Any tips for soldering? I plan on tinning both the battery and the wire and then melting the two together also going to use flux. I got a 60 amp bms from battery supports i think, but i still need the charger. Will this charger work for my battery configuration? http://www.ebay.com/itm/8S-28-8V-29-6V-Li-ion-Li-Po-Battery-Intelligent-Smart-33-6V-2A-Charger-for-US/221896637604?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D40757%26meid%3Dba2db937eae549b69b7158b94148bf58%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321471399664

hi Iā€™ve recently received the parts for my first build to realize that my space cell pro 3 had an xt60 connector and I was wondering which one is better, xt90 or xt60?

xt60 is fine for space cell because the low ampsā€¦

xt90 can do more continous current but they are a pain to disconnect and take up more spaceā€¦

Ok, before i purchase the charger from my last reply, I have a few questions. The basen batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7. Does that mean stop charging at 3.7? The charger I am planning to get charges to 33.6 (for 8s2p) which equates to fully charged at 4.2 volts per cell. Is this ok for my cells? I want to purchase tonight or asap. Im really excited to start making my battery! @saul could you answer this question for me? You seem the most experienced person that has responded to me so far regarding my batteries.

Edit: Did some digging and I am positive i can charge each cell to 4.2 volts which is why the charger voltage was higher than nominal. I went and bought the chargerā€¦

looks like you found your answer already, but yea nominal in this case means average V. li-ion range from about 3V empty to 4.2 full. 3.7V about where the battery stays for most of the discharge cycle so its used for most calculations like pack capacity.

let me know how that charger works, my 8s 10ah lipo pack needs a faster charger! :thinking:

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You can charge to 4.2vā€¦ though, if you are interested in longer cycle lifeā€¦ it is said that it is best to charge till 4.1vā€¦ or maybe even 4.05ā€¦ middle ground is 4.15vā€¦

My balance charger charges li-ions to 4.1v as defaultā€¦ I think it is also related with that, there is a bit tighter tolerance for li-ions and their max chargeā€¦

Though, if you are after 200-400mah extra for each cell (dont know your case)ā€¦ then charging till 4.2v is totally fine :slight_smile: Happy e-riding once you get everything set up

Iā€™d forget about trying to ā€œprolongā€ the life of your Li-ions by setting a lower charging cutoff voltage.

Li-ions will degrade over time quicker than they will degrade due to charging to their specified voltage. Even in a worst case scenario a cell specified with 500 cycles equates to around 5000km of riding (thatā€™s only at 10km per cycle). Most riders wonā€™t get anywhere near that mileage and thus the battery degrades over time quicker than the user over cycles the cell.

Setting a lower charge voltage is like filling your tank up only half full in order to get better mileage due to the decrease in weight. You may theoretically get better fuel efficiency, but the decrease in range is hardly worth it.

The only scenario where it might be a good idea is if you know that your charger over charges the cells above 4.2v. But even in that case you may as well throw out the charger and buy one that is more accurate with its cutoff voltage.

That is a somewhat good point! I have not got till 2-3yrs of age for my battery so cannot tell anything from personal experience yetā€¦

So I would agree - if board / battery is used only occassionaly, then go after higher capacityā€¦

On the other hand it looks like ppl who have better weather and uses their batteries a lot can wear down (at least lipos) a lot faster. Depends on applicationi think

Thanks for all the responces! I was practicing my soldering on some dead double Aā€™s the other day in preparation for soldering my basens. So far i have found that scuffing up the surface and a tiny bit of flux has been working well for me. I prep the batteries with the scuff and flux and then put a glob of solder on my iron and lower it onto the battery and spread it out quickly. Then i let the battery cool off a little and then remelt the solder and attach the solid gauge wire. Just have been practicing with 22 guage and AA batteries, wondering if this technique will work with basens and copper welding rod? Heard some people say that rod is easier to solder. How long should the molten solder / iron be in contact with the battery, i got my technique down to 2 secondsā€¦

Not my experience with copper rod it requires lots more heat than wire in my opinion