[ Razarač ] Quick and Blue

Hello All!

I’ve been lurking around on this forum for about two weeks now and been reading like crazy. I’m partway into my build and thought I would ask for some advice from the community. I’m a studying Mechanical Engineer and seasoned DIY-hobbiest. I’ve got lots of CAD and 3D printing experience as well. This is an exciting and awesome project.

Here we go!

As it is right now, these are the parts I already have in hand:

TB VESC TB 6355 190kv Motor TB Single Motor Mech Kit TB 83mm Flywheels TB Caliber II Trucks Atom Drop Through Board (Old board, will definitely be replacing this) Amazon

Obligatory “Current Pictures”

Lovely back view showing the horribly destroyed rear of my board and the drive wheel (heel side)

Side view showing clearance, along with the installed rubber risers and top mounted TB trucks

Bottom view showing the motor setup, backwards motor pulley and how cramped I am for space. Further notes below.

I’ve got an excel sheet typed up with my list of components and what I think I am going to get for the rest of the build. Excel Doc

Most of the stuff I picked out is from reading the forum pretty thouroughly. I have not ordered the stuff that is in white. I’m kind of stuck here trying to decide if it is worth me upgrading to 12s and trying to fit the four zippy cells on there, for a bit more cost, or if I can be perfectly fine with just 10s.

I’m quite aware that I will be able to go decently fast (24-26 weighted) according to the esk8 calculator, however I am not super inclined to trust that completely, and I will probably have a backpack on half the time at college. Most of the places around college are flat, however, at home I have a few decent hills that I would like to conquer too.

From what I have seen, the benefits of 12s are increased speed and a decrease in heat in the motor, which is probably good for me, since I am running single drive. I am not super heavy, only about 145 lbs (66kg), but I should also factor in about +10lbs for backpack, etc.

I would prefer to not spend more money, and still have good range as well. I understand that 12s doesn’t change the range, but I think having more batteries would? I’m not sure on that.

If anyone out there is running the same base setup as me (190kv, VESC, 10 or 12s) I would love to know which batteries you’ve got and approximately how much range you get. I asked Dexter and he said probably about 8-12 miles which isn’t horrible but it’s not amazing either. I’m thinking, like an hour of screwing around between 15-25 mph. I’d like more, so if anyone has recommendations here that don’t include building a pack (money), I would also love to hear those.

Some notes on the pictures I uploaded. This is the old deck, however, the Arbor Axis, Atom Blue Geo, and the Sector 9 Fractal are all about the same price, and look great. They are also the same concave type, which I personally like. I know people don’t usually build on these because of the flex, but I will work it out. I will probably split the batteries and the electronics front and back in 3D printed enclosures.

Yes, the pulley is on backwards, and I have no idea how it is actually supposed to fit in there with the TB mechanical setup. There just isn’t room?? If someone knows what I did wrong, please point it out, because I have no clue. I spent about an hour filing down the inside corner of the mount so I could push it on far enough to even align the pullies. Very confused on that one.

I don’t think there is any problem with top-mounting the trucks, as I have seen many people do it, and I don’t think I would have enough space to do drop through. If someone knows how I can do drop through, I’d rather have that, because I’m used to riding drop through.

Other than all of that, I an very open to input on the rest of the build and really hope this community will be able to give me some valuable advice, or a go-ahead to finish ordering parts. I will keep this thread updated with new pictures and findings as I go on.

-Ryan Berardelli

tl;dr I would love input on my build, pictures (and future video!) with my Galaxy S8

3 Likes

You should bring your mount closer to the wheel as you want the motor pulley sitting as flush as possible to the mount without touching it. This reduces the lateral pressure on the shaft for better efficiency. The pulley is not on backwards, just needs to be closer.

I’d also mount the motor so the wires face towards the rear and uturn back forward to the board to reduce strain on the wires.

Be careful with cheap BMS’s because while a lot of them provide overvoltage protection, they tend to not have balancing. Read the spec sheet and make sure it has a balance voltage and current. I’m assuming you’re bypassing the BMS as well since 20A is not enough for esk8.

You can drop through the trucks if you reverse mount the motor, though usually this requires some modification on the mount and a longer belt. This is how I modified my mount to be able to reverse mount. Used a dremel to join half the mounting holes together. While there’s less bolts, it still holds up solidly.

See my build here: http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/carbonated-enertion-vescs-hi5ber-overtaker-custom-10s4p-25r-pack-with-cell-level-fusing-abec-flywheels/10879?u=jinra

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Good idea about mounting the motor the other way.

OMG I always thought the pulley went the other way!! THAT MAKES SO MUCH SENSE.

lol thanks for that. I will fix that soon.

Your build looks pretty great, may consider the mount modification!

I dropped the gun and went for a 12S build. Batteries on the way!

Still deciding on a deck but I am pretty set on the Atom Blue Geo Drop Thru board.

It has been quite a while since I updated the thread on my progress, so I figured I would post again and update on how everything is going with a huuge update.

I have received all my parts, except the BMS from SuPower, which is taking a long time, which I expected so I am not super concerned about that. Here is my latest parts list: Excel Sheet

I got my bullet connectors and XT-90S soldered up and wired into the system and I have been able to do a check with the VESC and everything seems great.

XT90S wired up and heatshrunk

Bullet connectors for batteries and wire harness to connect to VESC

I’ve been working on a CAD model of my entire build in Fusion360 since I started, and it has progressed pretty far, including the enclosures and all the spacing. Here’s a few renders of it:

I got my two split enclosures printed, the battery one in two parts and the double VESC one (I am planning for future upgradability) in one part.

With those printed and everything fitting nicely, I will be drilling all the holes to mount the enclosures and should have it up and running within a week. I’m so excited and believe it or not I’m already thinking of an emtb build when the funds allow :wink:

More pics:

Let me know what you guys think of it!

5 Likes

The build looks awesome. What printer did you use for those enclosures?

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Thanks! I used the Lulzbot Taz 6 with abs. Took almost 30 hours to finish both pieces on .30 layer height

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Cool. Looking in to purchasing a 3D printer at work for ‘work’. :thinking: The front runners right now are Ultimakers or Zortax. Also looking at a Flashforge. Do you like the Lulzbot? Would it work ok for nylon?

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Where are you from? Im assumung Croatia? Im soon getting a new spotwelder controller so I could makw you a pack for something small like 10$ for the time and the cost for materials

If time isnt a problem let me now :slight_smile:

Hey bro, appreciate the offer! I’m in Canada though. Gl with the battery building!

Hey sorry for the late reply,

I’ve worked with the Lulzbot printers for two years now and I can honestly say they are some of the best out there. The Taz 6 is not an amateur machine, and requires some skill to get great prints out of. If you plan to use ABS, you really need an enclosure. The Lulzbot really is great and I’ve printed on it with almost every material out there. Nylon is annoying but I got it to print at like 8/10 quality after a bunch of tinkering with settings.

I also have worked with the flashforge and at that price point you would be way better going with the Lulzbot mini. It doesn’t have much print area, but throw an enclosure on it and abs and you’ll get amazing prints every time. Definitely our most reliable printer. I would say the failure rate was about 1/50.

Ultimater has some great stuff and I have also heard great things about the newest Prusa series.

Ryan

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Thanks for the insight brother!

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Any time! 10char