This is good video, actually I wanted to post it, but at that moment couldn’t find it. It explains a lot about compozite materials.
So, Thanx for posting it!
Your welcom lol 
At my local shop
Twill 200g/m2: 1 m2 costs 25 eur
Unidirectional 200g/m2: 1 m2 costs 15 eur
I almost died after reading this thread. Nice write up and build!
Thanx 
It will be continued when I’ll get carbon to make my deck more stifferd. Guy at carbon shop told me that wednesday he will have a carbon that I need.
Damn this is sexy.
I really want to try the same when I get the time, did it take a long time?
You mean all thing together or just truck painting job?
The deck, I like my stuff all black 
It still in process, deck still flexes so i’ll going to add more CF on it. But in total it took a lot of time.
Part Five: making awesome deck even stiffer
I took a battery powered drill and some sand papers, and started destruction work for better future…
But unfortunately it was just a tiny tickle for that board, till fibers is still way to go.Also two batteries of my drill was dead. So I took rougher sandpaper and Heavy artillery- my 220v drill:
Next step was cleaning of course and get ready for CF applying. Just before applying CF on a deck, I made sure that corners of deck is sealed so the grip tape. For the grip tape protection I used just a tamplate from thin cardbord, wich I tapped down with macgyver tape, by the way I protected griptape straigt before I was sanding down top coat, because scobs from epoxy are nasty they will stick to griptape and ruin the art. With griptape protection is also easy to work with board, you can put it everywhere you want and not be paranoid that griptape will eat your nice lookin table or so. Grip tape protection look like this:
Jus don’t panic, it’s just a punksnake 
The threads I was filling with plasticine so that epoxy is not getting in, and remember pink color is what you need Heat gun and syringe was very helpfull:
And edges of the board was protected with electrical tape. So I decieded to not deal with unidirectional CF since it is a bitch. So I thought 2 more layers of 200g/m2 Twill will do:
I stepped on the board and it is stiffer now but it still flexes! Already 4 layers of carbon on the bottom and 2 layers of GF on top and it is still not enough. Man…! 
So I deciedet to deal with bitch (unidirectional CF), so I layed down UD CF and used ghetto vacumming for getting pressed all those nasty fibers in place:
Then water sanding epoxy grooves from vacumm bagging:
And added last layer of Twill CF, this time I used plastic bottle to easy lay down CF with minimal weave destruction. It was wery handy since I was doing it alone, nobody could help me lay down the most important layer of CF. And CF is tricky, it wont stay nice, weave are moving around:
Now my board is like tank, it is sandwiched between 2 layers of GF and 6 layers of CF. Wheh I tested flex, Yeah, baby… now it is very stiff with just a little fast flex. Exactly what I was aiming for. Stiff as a dick. 
Some water sanding and edge trimming like usual.Next thing was to find those holes which are hidden under 4 layers of CF. I used magnets to find those holes. Actually it was very innocent how I ended up with that idea. I was in kichen scratching my balls or something and I looked at refrigerator and saw magnets, …That is it… they will help me find a holes… Yeeehaaa!
After drilling holes I filled up them with pink plasticine and then was time to add two layers of finish epoxy coat for UV protection. Of course with sanding in between, like I did before with finish coat, and using grip tape protection and edge protection with electrical tape:
And board is ready to get edges painting again, because after trimming CF they were damaged also some epoxy was able to get underneath electrical tape:
Then I buffed the board with no2 and no1 buffing paste like I did before:
Deck is ready, it took just eternity to make it, next time I will use downhill deck with w concave, so that one layer of CF just for nice look and that is it… Hope you enjoyed my making of nice deck. Wait for next parts in near future like finishing enclosure, electronics…
Peace.
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That is one beautiful and loved deck! Very fine craftsmanship here, hats off to you!
Thanx! Me happy when people are happy…
Now this is a build thread. To all those just coming in, this is how you do it. Well done good sir
Thanx! There will be more parts of the thread in next week or so…
Part six: finishing enclosure
I had some leftovers of CF and decided to add some more on lips of enclosure since there are very narrow space, so some holes are too close to edge. I wanted lips to be super strong. It was my fail that I made enclosure so wide that there isn’t left enough space for good 1,5 cm -2 cm lips. At some places lip was so narrow as head of the screw. Of course, I made wide enough from bottom so that rubber seal fits well. I added two layers of 200 g/m2 Twill leftovers on the lips of the enclosure as well on LED slider sleeves to reinforce them:
Next was trimming and a bit sanding, then dill a holes through those 2 layers of CF that was added to lips. After all that it is time to think how my electronics will be attached in to enclosurre, also find best places for each component in enclosure. I placed electronics that way that VESC 6 will have a space to fit in, if something will happen with my Enertion VESC 4.12. 
Also made a holes for Charger port, Volt meter, LED switch and Antispark button:
So I decided to attach my battery, bluetooth module, VESC capacitators and receiver with heavy duty Velcro, but other components with Zip ties, and some with Hot glue. For Zip ties I needed to make some holders. In my mind came idea of CF tubes, wich I could just cut in 1cm long pieces. Make a flat base and glue to my enclosure with Bison universal two component epoxy, same I was using before for LED sliders and thread inserts. I had laying around 8mm diameter CF tubes, left overs from my kite projects. The tubes itself are made from CF threads not cloth, so tubes are unidirectional. They look like this:
For attaching holders I scratched surface of enclosure where they will be attached, so that glue will stick to enclosure:
And glued tubes look like this:
But tubes alone are too fragile, because they are unidirectional and only 1 cm long. I’ve tested them, If you’ll Zip tie something to them, they will crack. Also vibrations from riding will lead them to crack while there is pressue from Zip ties. So they need reinforcement, you can use CF cloth or GF cloth, but make sure you use vacuum bagging, because there are agressive folding around those tubes with sharp angle on the base. Without vacuum cloth will not stick to tube. Before applying reinforcement you need scratch surface again, it look like this:
I had no left overs of cloth so I used just a Bison epoxy with very thick layer. I mixed up epoxy and was using it when it was starting to get very thick so that will not leak away from tubes. Bison epoxy is on flexible side and very strong, so I think it will be enough for my needs, time will show 
:
It is time for buffing now with no2 and then with no1 finish buffing paste, but make sure that there is no paticles from no2 paste when you are buffing with finish paste, they will scratch your work:
Paste no2 with rougher buffing sponge
Finish paste with smoother buffing sponge
The end result should look like this:
There will be more parts it is just a matter of time… See ya
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Part seven: Rebuilding battery pack
I had Bulky mama battery from group buy. It is 8S4P samsung 25R pack with huge BMS 77A. It was so bulky that I needed a double thickness of an enclosure that I already have. So no way that I will make another enclosure what is more than 4 cm thick! I decided to get nice, sexy and small BMS to make my pack suitable for my needs. I ordered Batterysuport.com 60A BMS. Here is battery at the beginning:
Even If I’ll take that huge BMS and put near to battery, not on top it still huge in lenght and width. It is so big as half of entire battery pack. Here you can see the size of that huge BMS compare to battery pack:
BMS was not only problem- welding job is done very bad. Spots of the welds was so tiny that they barely holding stips to the cells, so other words battery is dangerous. Any spot can fail in any time, also there was two layers of 6mm nickel strips. So they should be a bit wider. I’ve tested them with salt water- no corrosion, they really are nickel strips, but too narrow for our needs. Here’s how bad spot welds look like and how narrow nickel strips were:
I took it to local spot welder dude and he respot welded all pack and then added one more layer of wider nickel strip. Here you can see how look like proper welding spots, nice and vivid:
Next thing was to use hot glue to make battery pack solid, without glued cells it was very flexy, flex like that could lead to bad connection somewhere in the pack. I know that I could take those sleds out and just glue cells together and only then give my pack to spot welder, but I decide it is o.k. like that. Less job to do. Only difference in the end would be that battery pack is more compact. I have enough space in enclosure, so those few mm are not changing anything. So back to what I said, that how I glued battery pack together:
Now it’s time for shrink wraping the spot rewelded and glued battery pack, BMS will be outside the battery, because, if I’ll put BMS on the top of the battery, it would not fit in there at all. It was hard to find shrink tube for that battery. There is no options in local stores, biggest was 7 cm wide. But I found heavy duty, black shrink tube for 10 EUR, it is enough for 3 battery packs like mine. This is how it look like after shrink wrapping my battery:
Now I can call it a good battery pack, before it was dangerous, loose (flexy) and huge.Part about battery rebuilding is over, but there will be more parts of my build. Hope you enjoyed reading so far.
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Part eight: GT2B modification
It will be short part about modification of GT2B remote. It is many threads about it and I just followed instructions, it’s very simple.
At first remote was huge, I bouht it because it is reliable. I had plan to modify even before I bought it. So I bought remote and 3D printed case from:
https://electric-skateboard.market/product/gt2b-electric-skateboard-controller-housingcase-enclosure/ But link not working anymore, maybe just today?!
I disassembled GT2B, whole process of modifying was fun, easy with no fails:
Some more pictures with electronics fitting in new enclosure:
And end result was wicked, I love this enclosure Here you can see end result and compare it to original GT2B enclosure:
That is it for this part…
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