Rectangle Parallel holders for solder free battery pack?

There must be something wrong with using these since I don’t see anyone doing it? I have 2 hoverboard 10s2p packs in parallel to my board into a meepo esc. The hover board packs only have a PCB on them (According to those battery youtube experts…) so no balancing is being done, and I want to dismantle them and combine them into a 10s4p pack because of the low discharge rating and with a real BMS. I believe the pack would be a 40 continuous and 80 max current.

I have seen the Vruzend products but these battery holders look as if they might have a smaller profile.

Any thoughts from those with more knowledge? Or has anyone completed a vruzend battery pack.

I just want to make sure the fire hazard is reduced as much as possible. Once you have a 18650 battery pack (MSI LAPTOP) blow up in your house, your a little paranoid of them. My packs are wrapped in thick welding blankets…

This guy seems to be doing something very similar to what I have except for I want to go 10s4p. Maybe I should try the 4wd. My problem is I am into bodybuilding and 230ish pounds.


Go dual 6374 with 13/36T gearing and idlers and a 10s6p pack you should be fine.

15 teeth on the motor and 42 teeth on the wheel (15/42) is much better than 13/36 and is the same performance except longer belt life, less belt slipping, and less belt noise, and better freerolling

It’s more about how many amps those tabs on the cell holder can sustain. I would use these, but you need to think outside the box if you want to use these at 30 to 50 amps constant

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i used these on my very first build, at the time i wasn’t in love with the idea of gluing cells together.

while it was nice to have basically virgin cells when it was taken apart, these holders create significant bulk so keep that in mind when choosing your enclosure.

i’m not sure what the ampacity the tabs are so but i’m sure it’s not 20a as your cell is able to output.

also, the tiny tabs you’d solder the P and S connections are tiny as hell, i think it was intended for through hole pcb’s so that’s also a giant PIA.

Yeah true. I guess I shouldn’t make the assumption that everyone uses idler pulleys

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he did use them

Thats right, i’m gona quote myself from another thread

"I’ve done it and it works BUT if you see any way to get it spot weldet by someone then you should go for it and invest some money to get a proper weldet pack.

If you have really no other options take my advice. -don’t place the sleds upside down in your esk8 -after you’ve placed your battieres onto your sleds, wrap it up somehow using tape or shrinking tube. -try to not put your batteries out of your sledge to often as it can damage them if you are no carefully enough.

As i said it does work and a lot of stuff ppl. Say about using is not true but it’s definitly not the best way to build a pack."

Also i had problems with high voltage sag but i think that problem was more related to my bad esc and battery combination.