Red | Sector 9 Faultline | TorqueBoards Trucks | TB motor 230kv | TorqueBoards V4 mount | 9s | VESC

ESK8 Builds
,
#1

Hello there Been reading the forum for a while getting some ideas and trying to understand as much as possible. I’m putting my first build together

  • Loaded Dervish Sama deck (flex 2) --> Sector 9 Faultline
  • TorqueBoards trucks - ordered
  • 83mm E-Power wheels - ordered
  • 16/36 pulley system, 12 mm belt TorqueBoards - ordered
  • Turnigy SK3 245kv --> changed to TB 230kv motor
  • TorqueBoards mount V4 - ordered
  • 2x Turnigy 5000 mAh 20C batteries - ordered
  • VESC from TB

I still have to decide on a controller but I think I’ll get the GT2B and print the modded enclosure. A lot of this stuff is backordered so it will take some time for me to get started.

My goal is simple: safety/reliability. Ability to commute 6mi to work (all flat, no hills). Ideally I would not have to charge at work. I also want it to be a clean build.

Things to get worked out:

  • design and print an enclosure for electronics
  • mount the motor to the back or under the deck
  • how to wire the batteries so that charging does not mean having to pull the batteries out

Since it’s my first build I’ll suspect that some of these choices will change once I have everything running, but it’s a start.

4 Likes
#2

Hey @mcfly777 , welcome to the forum! The GT2B is a good choice. Are you thinking of using the BadWolf 3D printed enclosure or the one that @FLATLINEcustoms is putting on thingiverse? Are you going to run 6S? 5000mah probably isn’t enough to get the range to and from your work. Especially if you are running 6s.

#3

Thanks. @lox897 For the GT2B i’m waiting for @FLATLINEcustoms to put it there. But I can also use the BadWolf one, not sure really one is better than the other, any ideas?

For batteries I am running the 2 batteries in series, so 6S total. I figure it doesn’t have enough juice. So I may just pick up another 2 packs but wire it in parallel as I want to start with 6S (slow) before moving to lots of speed. OR, would you suggest wiring it in parallel and just limit the speed?

Leo

1 Like
#4

Well that depends are they 3s or 6s batteries? if you wire 3s in parallel you won’t go anywhere because it wont have enough power to push you around.

I love the Loaded Dervish Sama but the flexibility of the deck might not be very suitable for lipo batteries, they are not very flexiproof.

I imagine that if you have a flex 2 deck you probably weigh around 70-80 kg like me. I can go 8.5-10miles on a charge. Hope this helps

#5

Keep in mind, my friend, that the higher the pack voltage the fewer amps the motors will draw and less heat will build up in your system. 6s is good, but 10s is better suited to your application. SInce you are using the SK3 running @245kv with a VESC. There is a formula. Here’s a cool link from Benjamin Vedder to help out with selection: http://vedder.se/2014/10/chosing-the-right-bldc-motor-and-battery-setup-for-an-electric-skateboard/ My favorite calculator for running virtual rigs:

#6

I think @FLATLINEcustoms one is going to much better and easier to use. I am not sure how long it will take him to finish it though. I would get two 6s 5000mah (more mah if you want) and put them in series. That would give you the range you want.

#7

Thanks both. I canceled the 3s batteries. Looking into 4s. But essentially looks like the only game in town is hobbyking? Not to mention lots of stuff is backordered. Not sure when I’ll be able to get my hands on the 245kv motor. Was thinking of getting the 149kv that is available now but that means I’d have to go to 12s…

#8

u could use 10s with it

#9

Found a 230kv from TB so will use that instead. Will go for 10s.

Leo

#10

Designed and printed a small battery case. This is a prototype, printed in ABS. Fits nicely but want to improve on a few things.

2016-05-17 08.06.51.jpg2448×3264 2.5 MB

2016-05-17 08.07.00.jpg2448×3264 2.33 MB

Also bought a Sector 9 Faultline board, got a great deal. 9-Ply maple, 40". Should be solid enough for minimal flex.

2 Likes
#11

Designed a prototype 3d-printed enclosure. Also drilled the deck and countersunk some T-nuts so that when I apply grip-tape it is not visible.

For the enclosure, to-do:

  • switch to black socket screws
  • create countersunk screw holes every 50 mm
  • increase height of deck (+ 15mm)

Mechanical and electrical parts still on order @torqueboards

2016-05-29 12.59.18.jpg3264×2448 2.64 MB

2016-05-29 12.59.26.jpg3264×2448 2.18 MB

2016-05-30 11.08.50.jpg1600×1200 232 KB

6 Likes
#12

Sweet setup. How’s the enclosure holding up?

#13

We’ll see when I get the parts coming from you :slight_smile:

#14

man those cut outs for the connections are so sick!!!

#15

@mcfly777 I like that enclosure a lot. The 3d printed part just puts that finishing touch on it. Have you considered using threaded inserts instead of bolting the box through the deck? These little suckers are pretty cheap, but leave a really clean look. They are super easy to install too. Check em’ out.

1 Like
#16

Yes I was going to use those. But the length of these would still make me drill through the board, and I read somewhere that the outside threads can slowly become loose. So I opted to use the T-nuts instead, which will be covered by the griptape, so the end result is the same: a machine screw thread without anything visible from the top.

1 Like
#17

It lives! Got my parts this week from @torqueboards and it’s a thing of beauty. I need to work on the enclosure now (printing), and also decide how I will handle all the wires. Functionally, the acceleration is very smooth, as well as the braking. Have to adjust the turning as well, it doesn’t turn as tightly as I’d like it to.

More to come.

#18

Another update. Enclosure is mounted, fits the batteries and the VESC. Very solid.

To-do

  • hide the motor wires. I’ll route a groove on top of the deck, LHB style. Then I can hide the groove under griptape
  • improve the look of the enclosure. The enclosure works ok but I don’t like the texture of the material, it doesn’t look very good. I’m thinking of plastidipping it so that it looks matte black.
  • install the voltmeter where it should be (right now the motor wires are coming through that hole)
  • install a bluetooth module on the VESC UART so I can collect data. Alternatively I could use an open log board which I have already. Trouble is the programming part that I don’t understand well enough yet.
  • get an extension for the balance charge cable so that it can come out at the end of the enclosure where it was supposed to be

Pics

2016-07-12 19.09.03.jpg3264×2448 2.29 MB
2016-07-12 19.09.09.jpg3264×2448 2.51 MB
2016-07-12 19.09.14.jpg3264×2448 2.23 MB

2 Likes
#19

Routed the groove on top of the deck to hide the motor wiring.

2016-07-15 20.26.43.jpg3264×2448 2.11 MB

1 Like
#20

Nice routed wires :slight_smile: