Xenith looks like a great unit, however, my Street Surfer is single-motor, therefore a single TB ESC seems like the best fit, but it would be nice to get final confirmation of choice before ordering, as well as suggested programming settings.
The belt seems to be the weak link of the drive, and starting acceleration as the peak force. I would want to program for gentle start, but strong braking.
Thanks for any input on these points.
Set everything to 100. You’ll be fine
Thanks!
Will order “black” as well 
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A tb6 is a solid choice. If you can find an old used focbox it could be cheaper but those are the only two esc’s i would personally buy. Flipsky is a hit or miss and im dont have experience with any of the other single Esc’s besides focbox. I do know torqueboards makes quality products and usually has good customer service (can be a little slow sometimes though)
tb6 it is, then, with tb remote.
Are tb6 default presets good enough?
I may ask TB to preset at 100, if not. Its going to take a learning curve to reconfigure firmware.
TB support does not seem to think this board is worth renewing. They recommend starting from scratch, but that would cost hundreds more.
You don’t really understand the VESC if you’re concerned about presets. The motor controller is super overpowered for your application, but it should never break or get overstressed.
Am not even sure what to be (un)concerned about. Crisfell seemed to think presetting “everything to 100” was helpful advice. Now its implied to not “really understand the VESC”, if default setting to 100 is useless. Then TB support, who must “understand the VESC”, did not say just why upgrading this board is not recommended (except that they have not tested my particular upgrade). So I am left with three contradictory opinions, but greatly enjoying studying it out.
The VESC is intended to be programmed, not simply over-specified by default. Here in Central Texas it is hilly, >40C a lot, with hot pavement even >60C. My electronics bay is not ventilated, I am heavy, the board is heavy, with big air tires, so lots of heat and mechanical load compared to a skinny punk riding cool flat streets with urethane wheels. Its wonderful if the VESC under my conditions “should never break or get overstressed”. Those MOSFETs don’t look very beefy, and cooling is passive.
It will be fine. This ESC is meant for this.
“Set it to 100” is a joke
You should really watch some videos so you understand how to set up a VESC on a board.
Did you think about a remote control yet?
A “joke”? Got me good then. I have watched several install videos, but none yet cover every particular, like my odd set-up. Its clear not all VESCs are equal. Lots of complaints elsewhere here about burning out ESCs. This VESC handles 300A at 400V (drool)-
Power Designs | We spin, you move
Yeah, also studying remotes and receivers. I have long RC airplane experience, but esk8 needs are different several ways…
this is my fav remote, I broke the vx1 easily.
you will find after hooking up all the wires that the programming wizard is easy enough for anyone who can read to figure out their first or second try with no help.
If you have any issued just ask and we can solve them, that inrunner motor looks sick i bet it can take a beating.
Puck is dope. Its been a bit sketchy riding ATX hood randomly slinging a pistol remote 
Now I can pretend its mind control.
Seeing you are from Oly. I have serious PDX stripes (ClownHouse Science Officer, Ret.), where Puck is from.
Yo man you gotta @Crisfell. He’s really apologetic for the ill timed joke 
. 
I’ve fried so many ESC’s trying to figure this shit out. Just ask if you think an answer is questionable. My methods are very eccentric, but I’ll help anyway I can. 
No worry, I take a joke well, but when I make one cause 
So am ready to order. Nothing should fry if wires are right. 
But I have a couple of small mods, like an external usb socket interface for the VESC and adding some ventilation of the electronics bay, since heat is more common than wet when I ride. I’ll put a bit of open-cell foam to keep dust out of a PVC fitting, and also a dust cover for usb socket.
Also want to upgrade my LED lighting. Guessing its 5V, but will confirm. Hope there is no issue. I got used to the old set-up with remote having a screen interface with user speed levels and controlling the lights, but new remotes are not clearly documented on Seller pages, like how the lights are supported (guessing they all do it the same?).
Clueless 
Lucky 
Noob 
Spoiler Alert:
Skitzor (above) was the Word.
Prepared for electronic tear-out, I wiggled all the connectors first and did a final system test. Sure enough, it all came back up. Perhaps a receiver channel pin developed an oxide layer and opened its circuit.
Connectors remain the single weakest link in many systems. The ideal build maybe solders all connections. The whole “sparkless” connector issue is not just high-voltage transients in the MOSFET and elsewhere, but oxide production of unfluxed arcing in connectors. Condensation cycles are slow death as well.
I sure learned a lot desperatly scoping and futzing. Its clear that having multiple esk8s going is the way to never be stopped.
Editorial: Its totally vital that we keep solid mechanical platforms running virtually forever. When my Street Surfer electronics finally fries for real, no way I won’t upgrade.
Now primed to do a rad new build. JoeyZ8’s ride looks totally apocalypse-ready.
Glad to hear you’re up and running again. Especially the receiver part is critical. I’ve had mine randomly brake and accelerate. That was a fun ride Not
Not quite out of the woods yet 
As I repacked the enclosures and settled them, battery wires shorted on a deck bolt and arced for a couple seconds, until I pulled it all apart.
I overlooked damaged insulation from a sharp-edged non-cushioned thru-hole between battery and ESC compartments. Vibration from riding rough ground must have taken a toll. The short partly melted the battery connector and parted a wire. Will replace with XT90.
The Refurbish Topic lesson: Old or bad builds may have dangerous wire faults that require close inspection to spot. Even if a used board is working, careful inspection is essential.
ooof, hopefully you can recover the pack. Maintenance and care is everything. If you want the reliability of a car, you have to take care of it like a car.
Skitsor: “If you want the reliability of a car, you have to take care of it like a car.”
Indeed, esk8s are like caring for a cantankerous early car, not a boring modern car.
As a bike mechanic, I was very aware a bike somehow needed more maintenance than a car. This paradox was due to the light weight requirement of a bike, and the far smaller R&D efforts. Only recently have bikes become reliable without skills, given superior materials and perfected design.
Its insane how fussy esk8s are to provide serious reliability. My Fiik was created by Aussies who did an amazing caveman design (“no worry” if the dingo licks the baby). Enjoy the burn, because someday esk8s will be cheap and boringly reliable. For those who missed the secret superpower of my Street Surfer-
if you have no idea what you are doing and use cheap parts it sure is.
look at @b264 his builds are tanks simple and hard to break.
