The only remote I’ve used on an e-board so far has been a boosted board remote. At first I thought it seemed kind of cheap feeling. My buddy got the enertion nano remote for his DIY board and I was shocked at how cheap it felt. It made my boosted remote look like the nicest remote of all time haha.
What is up with the garbage remote selection we have for DIY boards?!? Has anyone retrofitted the guts into a boosted board remote? There has GOT to be something better than these cheap toy feeling remotes.
A bit larger than desired, but it works out of the box (no adjusting the settings to get the correct throttle range), is cheap, and I’ve never had a drop out from it.
not at all. Haven’t changed batteries in 3 months, lol. And I ride daily, at least a few miles.
Takes 2 double AA, runs them in series at 3v. As long as you turn it off, your fine.
Others have told me there batteries seem to last forever also.
I’ve used a few of them and never any issues.
I can tell you I love this remote so much that when we ship complete boards, this will likely be the remote we will use (maybe a new case, but same internals, because they are rock solid)
I have used several remotes and my opinion is as follows:
GT2B: a great remote with no signal dropouts. However, it is large and cumbersome for riding. There are several case mods but I do not personally like them.
Nano: Small and compact but signal drop outs are very frequent when around other Bluetooth signal sources. Very unreliable and quite dangerous!
Mini: Great Remote. Practically smaller version of the GT2B.
Benchwheel: A great remote with no dropouts. Small and compact, easy to ride with.
In my opinion, for thumbwheel control use the benchwheel. For trigger finger control use the mini.
Not a realistic option unless you really want to make your own, but made my own posted code and PCB schematics (Eagle 8.1.1 files) here:
Runs off 1 1S LiPo the Arduino is the 3.3V 8MHz pro mini variant so it can operate on voltages as low as the discharged 1S LiPo can go. Literally have left it on for days before by accident and still has power, I put a 800 mAh battery in there and it uses about 10-20mA of current so should last somewhere between 40 and 80 hrs before a recharge.
Haven’t ordered them yet, have no use for them in this version
The cost depends on the Nrf chips, they are expensive in small quantities. They cost around 3.5 Dollars for only 1.
So for one nrf pcb with the componets is around <7$ and u usually uses two so ~15$, the cap antenna is the one doing it expensive.
Gotcha yeah I ask because the ones that are out there are done at such a massive scale (and probably skipping a lot of Q&A and general component quality control) but can get them between $0.50-$2 a piece if you buy 10 or more so hard to turn away from that. I’ve been thinking over putting together some charge circuitry in some LED risers but the TP4056 does the job and is already dirt cheap because of the economy of scale (my guess is if you make 100,000 or more the price gets to where you can sell them for what they’re sold for).
That’s not true really, mine works from about a half a block away if I have the settings on max for transmission and have a capacitor on there. Usually I run them on the min broadcast strength which does only go a few meters in clear line of sight but can easily be blocked by any bags of water (people’s bodies).
The cost depends on the Nrf chips, they are expensive in small quantities. They cost around 3.5 Dollars for only 1.