tiny steps today - Im not in a hurry since my vescs and mini remote are still on their way anyway.
started the day with dremeling the braided copper wire channels into the lower resin areas. you can see very well that in the lower part of the interconnecting segments (beneath the wood blocks that I used to form the segments in the first place), there is quite some resin and also air. got enough room everywhere now for the copper wires
which i then shrink tubed with the thickest glue shrink tube I had. you can also see the 5.5mm bullet connector 10AWG loop key. its my first serious dual motor setup, so I went slightly overboard with wire thicknesses and connectors.
the idea was to stick out the female part and have a short male connection on the inside of the enclosure to allow swapping components more easily. on my single motor boards, I had VERY little room and most of the stuff was hard soldered. now I got a lot more room to play with and Im using it for some component flexibility.
drilled 9.5mm (!!!) holes into the enclosure which fit the 5.5mm connectors with superthick shrink tube perfectly - can barely move them in an out. fixating with sugru at a later point, since somehow I didnt have any sugru anymore. for the picture the male-female-units are just stuck in there!
at the sides, I got my triple -++ ports for charging and also for on/off with my giant loop key. you can see that I stuck the male-female units far in at the side which fits the arriving braided copper wire perfectly, as its just coming through under the thick shrink tube of the male-female ports.
I still don’t get why don’t you use an antispark switch, on a such a beautiful build, the small details always add up, even though the loop key is a clever and reliable solution, an antispark switch looks way nicer in my opinion.
after one nearly dead battery i just cant trust antispark switches anymore. cant add LEDs to my builds either, cause its too easy to spot that something is fishy about that board.
How did you actually managed to melt xt90s? At first you made suspicious about vedder’s anti-spark and then basic xt90s. I thought i would like to try something fancier than xt60 loopkey which i have used so far.
not sure what ever happened to that xt90S. other people reported it got very hot when it wasnt fully plugged in - my guess is that a small resistor (the one that supresses the spark) it the sole connection and the rest didnt really connect. some brought some mysterious polarity into the game which I dont believe up to date.
for me it happened twice with an xt90s - got hot, started melting, game over.
about vedders antispark: i have never used that. so far Ive tried torqueboards antispark which worked fine up to date since more than 2 years. and an alien power system antispark, which I killed TWICE now.
The only reason to use a full AntiSpark switch is stealth. Other than that a XT90S should work fine - although it seems like people have mixed feelings regarding them. Besides @whitepony I have not heard of a lot of cases that a XT90S has melted. Not inserting it fully might cause obvious problems though.
Dang man, that is super clean! I’m beginging a trampa urban carver setup as well but this enclosure is going to change that build setup for sure. What kind of Mph/range are you getting with the dual 6355 and 10s4p?
I really hope I don’t run into the issue of melting an xt90…
but that will have open slits and holes so that dust and dirt plus water can get inside. @whitepony’s enclosure seems much better suited for the intended purpose (and also looks better). You should look into manufacturing a similar one instead of just offering a panel that needs to be worked on and have end caps made.
problem is that my enclosure isnt very generic - its suited only for my kind of battery layout. i share your thoughts about the trampa enclosure, but for many people without access to vacuum, this is a good start. you can always wrap your components in cling film and just use the slitted enclosure as physical protection.
I am also wondering if the thin slits are actually wide enough to allow for flex. The paper @trampa showed the flex with, is only able to flex because the “parts” left and right of a slit can move above and under each other. With thick carbon (additionally mounted to a deck) this is not possible anymore. The only way then is to have enough distance between the faces.
@trampa: can you show how good the actual carbon flexes?
There are two different slit pattern, one for bending upward and one for bending downwards. This allows the enclosure to flex in both directions. The enclosure is very sturdy and impact resistant! 4Ply Trampa magic fiber.
I just lay a thin (0.5mm) silicone sheet inside the tub and everything is nice and waterproof. The end bungs will be shown tomorrow. They seal off the ends very tight and splash proof.
We think its a nice and generic product that can be made to any length and requirement and basic tools are enough to sort out your custom battery box within 2hours.
it wasnt a very long discussion and Im still not sure why it happened. maybe it was a bad soldering joint (unlikely, im very thorough). maybe i damaged the resistor/full contact thing with soldering heat somehow and god knows what it did to the xt90s.
youve actually fiddled around in that thread too back then already
