Shorted motor windings repair

This weekend I managed to short three of my 6384 motors from @ALIENPOWERSYSTEM1 with slightly too long mounting screws. The screws for the motor mount where just 1mm out of the thread but it seemed to be enough to damage the isolation of the phase wires and short them. In general the motors still look good and i think they could run again if I just could cover the damage part. Problem is that everything so tight that i can cover the damaged part with heat shrink. I now used some liquid tape to cover the phase wire. The problem is that I can’t see if really all damaged areas covered. Does somebody know if there is a way to check that? I will check with multimeter but that’s just…not cover all areas, so not really what I‘m looking for. Maybe somebody know a way how to take this part off? image Or a other way to repair phase wires?

I was waiting more than 3months for this motors…would be sad if I need to threw them away :unamused:

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That’s a bummer brother! I’m pretty sure the tube is glued on with loktite on most motors. Maybe hit it with a torch, but I’d look into it further before doing so!

Edit: and be careful not to bend the mount plate

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If you can slide heat shrink to that area you would be golden. I had a similar issue with old enertion 6355s I just used heat shrink to insulate the shorted windings. Also you can use liquid electrical tape but make sure let it dry properly before using

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I tried to get heat shrink over. No way… I used liquid tape today. I measured the places which where short before and I couldn’t measure any short anymore. I just can’t be sure as the damaged part of the wire is on the side faced to the mounting plate and there is no way to see if it’s covered 100%.

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Found this: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2178631-Problems-removing-stator-from-bearing-tube

Seems the best way to remove the stator from the bearing tube is with penetrating oil, and freezing the whole thing overnight. Bolt the motor down to something, and twist the stator off

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Absolutely fraught with error that.

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No? What would you do?

thx for the link. as far as i have seen it looks like the bearíng tube is also glued in with epoxy or something like that. not sure if the penetrating oil would be enough.

Sorry man fro what happen. I am working on anew DD and I have motor similar or actually exclatly as the Alien and I have just disassembled them. You first need to remove the Can with magnets. Then basicaly at the base of the stator there is glue. And if you look from the front part there is a keyway to prevent the pipe inside the stator to turn. You need to remove the back and the front bearing inside the stator with a thiner bar. Then you need to find a tube as close as possible to the inner stator diameter. You first heat it up the base of the stator with air gun. Then hold it with gloves and hammer it from the front with the tube. You should get it off in multiple movement. Just whach out during the step that the copper wire doesn’t stay glue ted on the black part you are try to remove. If thst is the case heat it a bit and with a screw driver or whatever you detach the wire from the black part. The glue should be melted.

Here the pics I got from the factory that helped me with the process and one of the motor disassembled

42664df87c873b5e0baa097c78a818d1 ac6ae31c405343a91b6918e916fc12d0 IMG_20181026_114312

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thx for the help man! that looks good on the pictures. what you think with which temp and how long i´ll need to heat up the front black plate till i could get it out?

That poor flashlight lol

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worth to scarify it :point_up_2::point_up_2::point_up_2: in the name of “get shit repaired” :joy:

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Andy wtf man you’ve blown up so much high end stuff! Savage, doubly so because apparently it’s impossible to buy things in Russia.

Keep it up man you’re my hero!

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Could be shorting within the windings. An LC meter is cheap and can reveal through the inductance comparison of all phases. If the phases show imbalanced inductance and there’s a short within the phase it probsbly won’t work well and you should rewind it.

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Don’t use liquid electrical tape. Use conformal coating.

There are 3 types though and they are all very different … Maybe for that I would try acrylic first (it’s thin and will run down into the windings) then cover it all with silicone

20181002_215000

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Ahahah that what they used. I milled in the late a copper bar to fit the inner diameter. I guess whatever is fine as long it works :joy:

Well that depends on the glue they used. In my case I found that most of it is at the based. Basically where the black thing goes inside the stator. I would mainly heat it up there, slowly from the sod eof the stator. Start with 50-60 sec and see it. You should not be able to hold the stator with bare hands. The mass of the stator works as a hummer too so it’s enough only holding it with you hand. When the glue is melted it should come out. Usually the inner stator and the black pipe have a pattern to improve grip between each other so do not aspect it will come out really easy.

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@Hummie and @b264 as far as i can see and measure with a multimeter there is no short in the windings. Only the part where the windings soldered to the silicon wire has a damaged isolation from the mounting screw. If I can remove the front part I could get heat shrink over that part and hopefully fix the motors.

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You can’t tell if there’s a short in the windings with a multimeter as the winding resistance is so low. There’s a couple ways to reveal but the easiest is the l/c meter. All a multimeter could tell would be a short between different windings or to the stator

But if you can see that the windings on a tooth are not pushed together maybe you’re good

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If don’t to count the burned board I think it’s not so much I fried yet :sweat_smile: What’s one two focboxes… drv chips pffff I would more say i‘m a thread grinder… I really manage to get all threads flat…:unamused:

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