Dual 6384
But i want to 3d print the mounts and they will only handle 6354ās
This im building a 6384 dual with 12S.
3d printed mountsā¦ Sounds like a bad idea man.
Correct me if Iām wrong but did you like find some sturdy resilient plastic for your printer? Will you have some vibration dampening system that would prevent cracking?
If so I would also add idlers so you wouldnāt have to run tight belts, because the constant tension on the mount along with one bad bump in the road could cause a bend or break or crack since weāre talking about plastic here.
id like to use petg, i pretty strong and dsnt realy break, if there will be to much wibration ill buy aluminium motor mounts
I believe you are underestimating the amount of stress an esk8 has to deal with. Iāve seen some good motor mounts for like 18 bucks each.
shouldnāt you be aiming for something over engineered for sturdiness and safety.
In what situations will you be using the E-board and why are you building it?
PS dual 6354 is great .
beforehand i had the 6364 setup (single) with a stiff deck and 83mm wheels it was kinda bumpy id like an upgrade to my board for acceleration and smoothness. you might be wright with the mounts i may get the cncād ones
did anybody use this motor? its rated for 8s max, is overvolting to 10s a problem?https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/33042377192.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2e94373arKicuQ&algo_pvid=f0acc330-2cb0-4a5f-a39b-a5b1ac01aa48&algo_expid=f0acc330-2cb0-4a5f-a39b-a5b1ac01aa48-1&btsid=8945e8e7-4932-4123-87cd-b2ddaf74f487&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_7,searchweb201603_55 and i dont know if that one has the hall included i also found these but they are not as cheap and they look the same but there is no option of 180kv, please help me decide https://www.ebay.com/itm/6354-6364-6374-6384-150-170-200-230-270KV-High-Efficiency-Brushless-motors/303074535503?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D92014f27333849a4bb34479a1d0c10aa%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D202699594817%26itm%3D303074535503%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ac16c5fa2-f440-11e9-abb1-74dbd1800f45|parentrq%3Aeffde5d316d0acc6983ec3bdffe4bdf6|iid%3A1
If your goal is to save money on the mounts you should just get @dickyho mounts instead of 3d printingā¦ Its going to end up snapping and hurting you or your hardware
thanks i saw them, they look nice, what do u think obout the motors?
This seems to be the best as they say bang for the buck. if you can track him down.
Itās hard to recommend motors but itās even harder to recommend cheap ones. Personally I just wait for hobby king sales and grab some sk3 motors they might not be the most luxurious motors on the market but they pack a punch and should be reliable.
i had an sk3 but it kinda broke and i want something sensored
Howād it break?
I once broke a motor myself, so feel free to say maybe if it wasnāt setup properly Iād relate.
im not sure really it made clicking noise and the screws stripped out and i cant take it apart to see what has happened, 90% it was my fault that it brok so no bad feelings for sk3
Stripped screws there fault, Most likely, Iāve heard people had the same issue.
must be some weak zink screw.
if i will be able to grab some flipsky 6354 on sale ill get those
those look nice and are cheap as hell, i might be able to live without hall sensors
high kv so low low torque with a normal 15/36 config.
And if youāre running timing belts I wouldnāt go lower than 15t on the motor pulley.
It seems like to have something functional you can only cheap out on some stuff and then you have to build around it.
180kv high??? i think that 180-200kv is the perfect spot, and i think the power is really ok 2x1900w is a lot
only 8S though for thoseā¦