Hello all,
I just royally messed up somehow and I’m not sure went wrong. It may be obvious to you guys. I connected the battery’s negative to the antispark negative and then the antispark negative to the ESC negative. Same with the positive. I used xtc60 between the battery and antispark, and I used bullet connectors between the antispark and the ESC.
When I powered it on to test, there was a crack spark and now the bullet connectors are blackened and one must have exploded off the wire. Can anyone point to me what could’ve been wrong?
What are your thoughts to on whether the ESC is likely to be destroyed or not? Its own power wires are blackened too. Pics:
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Probably using bullet connectors instead of an XT connector to connect the battery to the esc. I rarely seen people do it now a days. I’m guessing it wasn’t on properly and due to this, it sparked.
Does the battery/anti spark still work (still gives voltage reading)? And is the esc fried (next line explains how to test)? You can check by changing the connector and testing again properly.
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Damn maybe that is it. Though I’ve seen a lot of posts with the same issue with anti spark switches (especially from Flipsky), and lots of people recommending a loop key instead?
I don’t have a multimeter as yet but will try to test it out on Tuesday eve when I’ll have one and a spare eve. Thank you again Leon.
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I also recommend the loop key since antispark switch will eventually fail. I learned that after wasting my money on 2 of them. Never again.
You’re welcome.
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Is it possible there was a cold solder joint in one of your bullet connectors? When you solder and put the wire in the cup of the bullet connector do you leave the heat on it for a bit to melt everything together? Just dunking a cold wire end into a hot bullet connector can do that.
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That definitely could be a possibility. I haven’t soldered for over a year or more and may have botched it, or it could be the bullet connectors and that they’re not insulated?
I’ve tested the ESC and there’s no short between the negative and positive at least…it still could be buggered from what I understand… Either way I will def use XT90s next time.
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And a loop key instead of an “antispark” switch
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