Stealth build: Space Cell | VESC | LHB | CF vinyl | Fiberglass | 190kv

Just figured I’d finally make a parts list as a ton of people on youtube have been asking.

parts -Space Cell (same as spare raptor battery) -ollin boards VESC -enertion 190kv + enertion mount (equivalent to current Mono Rspec drive kit) -GTB2 with custom 3d printed enclosure caliber trucks fywheels

First step was getting a custom 9 ply board from @longhairedboy, and carving a little more than halfway into it for the Space Cell and VESC to be recessed. There is also a channel under the truck for the motor wires.

I then made a fiberglass with two layers of fiberglass, and two layers of resin… probably should have done three layers of resin to get it a little stiffer, but the loose flex is ok as nothing is connected to the case- it is just rock deflection really.

I also topped it off with some carbon fiber vinyl wrap just to make it that much more stealth… it’s held on with a ton of little screws making it a pain to take off, but I since you have access to all the space cell ports I rarely open it up.

topped off with a cool griptape job on the top (and repping my local skate shop, Block skate shop) and you’re done!

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its a sweet build, and it hauls ass on that single 6355 for sure. When we were tearing around your hood at one point we were on that busier street and the cars weren’t passing us anymore lol

i was on my rat board at the time, a 340 watt hour 6S with twin 270kv NTMs. Seemed like they were doing about the same performance wise, but my lipo power pack doesn’t quite shove out as much juice at once as other lipos do. You probably could have outrun me if we were racing and not playing follow the leader.

To mask the area for the fiberglass, did you just use masking tape? I’ve heard of people using like aluminum foil etc.

I was planning on making a molded enclosure shape out of wood and then applying the fiberglass to it to make the enclosure. Would masking tape be enough to make sure it does not bond to wood?

Also, you didn’t use a vacuum bag or anything to remove bubbles?

Nope, no vacuum bag -

I’m pretty sure @longhairedboy doesn’t use a vacuum bag either, and his boxes turn out absolutely perfect.

And masking tape is enough to keep it off the wood- just make sure to smooth down all the tape edges with you finger nail as to no allow any resin down in between the gaps.

All of my first molds were wood, and then I did a couple in foam because the foam was very easy to remove (you destroyed it in the process though)

i use a sculpted wooden form made from a box shape sitting on top of a section of deck so that i can have it fit my concave lines perfectly. I use PVA mold release on top of mold wax to get the finished piece to pop off the mold easy. I don’t use a vacuum bag but i do have a technique i sort of came up with to get the fabric to lay down around the edge angles without bunching in some horrible ugly way. It involves using the squeegee instead of the brush to spread the resin in a particular path so that the difficult areas can bunch smoothly first then the easy areas can just fall in line. But because i don’t use a vac bag there are air bubbles on occasion, but that can be minimized with the squeegee thing and some practice.

but all of that will be in the past soon. I recently met with a guy one town over who does fiberglass commissions for disney and the government and rich people and even boutique small businesses like mine. He’s going to be making my boxes from now on and i should see something from him in the next couple of weeks. I gave him my box form as a reference, but i’m going to need it back so i can make a tutorial on how to make esk8 boxes out of bondo. I think its important because despite bondo being god aweful smelly, its cheap, immediately available locally and it makes hella boxes, and i think if people follow me on how i do it they could easily make the one offs they need for their builds without wasting money on fucking up carbon fiber and expensive resins.

i just can’t do it anymore, it consumes my back porch with child unfriendly detritus and now i need that space for my xcarve.

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Hey @cmatson, love how the build turned out!

I am working on a new build and think the fiberglass technique you used would work nicely for this

I already have some woven fiberglass on hand but still need some epoxy. Do you have any recommendation on the type of epoxy and how much I might need for this?

Thanks!

I like the west systems apoxy-

It has resin and a hardner, both of which have push dispensers that proportionally mix the correct amounts. This means you don’t have to measure out drops of hardner for your resin.

I think the package I have is 207 resin and 105 hardner? Maybe that but switched? I think there is also a frame in my YouTube video of my stealth board showing the apoxy as well. The video also shows me applying two of the layers

Hope that helps!

Good to know, I’ll give that a try! A quart kit should be more that sufficient right?

Yep, 1 quart should definitely be enough for one box!

hey man do you have a 3d cad model of this board?

Not anymore man- I’ve changed all my cnc designs so much and haven’t kept any old copies saved… sorry.

I generally start from what I had before on each build, so older models get lost through modification

Ok thanks!