❗ Sudden Intermittent Braking Issue?

I will be changing out the battery to something like a 10s4/5p early 2019

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If you’re in the uk then @bigben will make you a 10s of pure 30q loveliness. Those mboard/diye batteries are just not very good at all. Put it this way. I have a 10s3p from the same source and the esc it was designed for is rated ffor 18 amps per motor (its a dual) I upped the amps when I converted to focboxes to 20 amps per motors and the bms blew up. Didn’t cut anything out it just went pop. They are very low rated for use with the generic chinese esc that is in all those boards so unless you have reprogrammed that focbox completely to allow for this you will have all sorts of problems.


holy shit Ive never heard of this before. Did you happen to take pictures?

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I think you are the one which gets to take home the solution check today my friend! :grin: so you had an MBoards Battery? any photos of the BMS :fire:? i will talk to @bigben, is he in the UK?

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yep bigben is in the UK :slight_smile:

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sorry about the bashing, but let’s get back on track.

yes you can connect your bt module to the vesc, that’s a whole thing you’ll need to figure out because it differs based on type, what phone OS you’re running, etc.

in terms of battery numbers, here’s some conservative values you should be using:


the product page says “LG cells,” which really means nothing. i’m assuming they’re some shit cells that sags a lot, hence the 0.7v sag figure.

basically if the cells sag and hit the hard cutoff voltage, vesc will cutout. one way to prevent that is to set the soft cutoff pretty high so the vesc can limit current draw before it hits hard cutoff.


I use it now as a test rig for my bench. Bought it way back when we all fell under the DIYE spell. Its the exact same unit that mboards sells as his own. Total bollocks. Made a whole video about building these things and all the time he was just reselling generic chinese crap. The point is the tolerances between what the battery can supply and what the bms is rated to are very small so be careful with the battery amps settings.

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i am using IOS any good apps for config?

This guy has an ios app for bluetooth but I’m not sure how far he got with it or if it was successful. PM him and check it out. I don’t do bluetooth.


i’m not aware of any ios apps where you can change the config.

you’ll need to your computer via usb.

what about android?

i dunno, no bluetooth for config, i only use bluetooth for monitoring.

only do config with physical connection via usb.


ok, its a bit of a pain to cut the silicone open up the board update the config and then seal it back up. once I upgrade the battery it is a must to put this on the enclosure. but what has to be done has to be done! :grin:

I know the unity can be setup by phone, maybe it’s possible to load that firmware onto a focbox, probably not though

That is a really good idea. I have 2 ip65 rs versions sticking out of mine. Very handy indeed.


They have a little screw on cap that goes with them which keeps the crap out but are pretty big and not the most attractive of connectors.


@dareno is you’re entire board ip65? here in london because the roads are crap water always sits in little holes and I really need to get places with my board. Maybe I could learn something from you! I plan on every port I use to be rated at IP65 and the enclosure too. I think i will even end up making a custom cable to go through the deck into a IP65 pelican case with everything like the power switch, battery meter, etc. To put it simple, water damage shouldn’t even come to my mind :smile:

Alas no I have done my best for stopping ingress but here in the colonies when it rains you hide because otherwise you drown. Don’t ride if it even looks like rain because one minute you’re fine next you’re floating. You need @b264 for the kind of protection you need in the uk. Water ingress protection and waterproofing for when the water inevitably gets in there.


I just got home from CVS, and it started raining on my way home.

I try to keep water out. That being said, I always assume water will be in everything and make sure it will still work anyway.

This is usually manifests itself as a bunch of coats of “MG Chemicals silicone modified conformal coating” in the 55ml brush-on bottle – with some “MG Chemicals acrylic conformal coating” in the 55ml brush-on bottle for a single coat on any heatsinks

But every thing is unique and if you pretend there is saltwater all over it, what needs to happen to make it still work and not corrode or short out? Do that LoLz


Metr can

10 char


you can change the vesc/focbox settings with the Xmatic or eSkate VESC app on iOs. but that´s only for the motor and batter max/min values ERPM and Watt limit in xmatic you can set a max speed too. the battery cut off and motor detection you would still need t make via your laptop, but usually you set this up only once when you make the first configuration anyhow.

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