Surf's Up | Loaded Dervish Sama Circles | Custom Sensored Dual Hub Motor SK3 6374 | 6S Lipo | Xerun 150A ESC | 90 mm Flywheel Clones

When I first started making my first board, I first considered making my own hub motors like this but out of a tacon 160. I stop myself from doing it though cause I though I would need bigger and more durable bearings and also questioned myself on how I would attach the outside of the motor to the urethane of my wheels. I concluded that I would need to make a new motor encasing which I would need a cnc machine. I though it would be too expensive and not worth the effort so I didnt do it. Did you get bigger bearings? and How did you attach the outside of the motor to the wheel?

Also here is the link to Stielz post where he made his hubs https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=68181 scroll down.

1 Like

I used the original bearings. I think the big bearing should be no problem, however it may better to use some bigger bearings for the outside bearings. E.g. 688 bearings.

The urethane is tight fitted around the can. I still need to add some glue . So far the wheels don’t move much but one of them moves a bit when it gets warm. I think I will add the glue on one side, so that I can replace the wheel when it is worn out.

Initially I wanted to use only one motor, so I rewired the motor from delta to wye for more torque per amp.

8 Likes

Huh Let us know how the bearing hold up after you ride it for a while. I may make my own hub if you get good results :smile:

1 Like

I actually removed the bearing tube. The small bearings inside the stator are only used to center the stator. I used JB weld to glue the stator to the axle and aluminum.

Indeed, removing the stator is not possible. I hope they last :slight_smile:

Thx for the tip

2 Likes

Adding the hall sensors:

11 Likes

The idea of the amount of material taken off of those trucks scares me. Hopefully the stator tube and bearings can handle the bending load. I’d mostly be worried about the centre side bearing. Think you’ll be replacing that a lot. Otherwise, super cool build! Nice DIY skills and innovations.

1 Like

Short video:

5 Likes

Still running fine…

7 Likes

Does the urethane use a friction base attachment? I would LOVE to try this with my 6374 but I don’t want to get any slippage.

Also, did you use a bit size smaller than the can?

Any tips for coring the wheel?

I ended up putting some epoxy between the can an the urethane. It didnt slip, but it slowly creeped of the can.

The bit size was indeed smaller than the can. To press it on the can, I first put the thane in hot water to make it a bit more elastic.

For coring I used a hole saw for metal with a pilot drill for alignment. The pilot drill goes into the skatebearings. I sprayed water to keep the dust away and cool the saw. The bearings dont like the water, so if you want to reuse them you need to take them apart and dry them.

Did you ever test what kV you rewinded to? Do you have amp readings? Also, what c rating on the lipos? I’m thinking 30c.

I did not measure the kv, but it should be 149 / sqrt(3) = 85 Lipos are 2x3s 40C 5000ma in series

What was the bit size for the skate bearing?

5/16 inch for the pilot drill

57 mm for the hole saw

1 Like

Cool stuff on your thread! IT did went away behind my nose I assume :smiley: and was just sitting on the forum unnoticed…

1 Like

Where did you get the tiny hall sensors?