"The Cheetah" aka the Creepo board. (Upgraded Meepo clone build in progress)

Ok guys, i received a first batch of parts from China a few days ago, including a pretty decent deck (Cheap Vanguard copy, yet bamboo and fiberglass…) two 90mm hub motors and a dual ESC to feed them… Got this from @diyeboard. Everything looks quite well built and solid, pretty fast delivery (around 10 days from China to France), also got a solid support from them until now. I will make a quick review of this combo as soon as i 'll get it rolling, and keep u informed about any reliability concerns that may happen. Those hubs and ESC are basically the Meepo board parts, but according to DIYeboard, a bit upgraded… Meepo hubs are rated 250W/12A when these hubs are said to be 500W, and eating up to 50A… The ESC also has higher specs than the Meepo’s, as it is supposed to handle 230A, instead of 212A… Here are a few pics of the pack:

As u can see, the deck has some camber, but no concave at all. The flex seems to be decent. Heavy and beefy 90mm hubs. I have to say that both hubs are not made from the same PU. One is glossy when the other is matte… Probably out of two different batches…It’s not a big concern, but it shows how “high” the quality controls can be in China… :smile:
I’m not going to send them back for this though…


And eventually, here comes the dual ESC pics:

So guys here is my question: I plan to get this stuff: But as u can see, the ESC already has a switch… (kind of JST plug ?..Removable) Could I bypass this switch, or can I use it with this antispark?.. Is it possible set it between the battery pack and the dual ESC, but to keep the inbuilt switch from the ESC?.. If any one knows…

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This antispark is sold here:

I have the same esc (Brushless motor version) the button turns on and off the system. No antispark needed unless you want extra security


I actually want extra security as my BMS will be for charging and balancing the cells, not for discharge…

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Thx for your answer by the way! :wink:

K. Always better to be safe

Is this ESC reliable?

I thought i would add a fuse, in case of… I’m not really sure about this… And its specs seem to vary…

do you guys see any concern if I keep the inbuilt switch from the ESC, and only set the antispark (fuse) between the cell pack and esc?.. will this work?

the Antispark can be ordered with or without the switch…

I am using the same ESC but with brushless motors, I have an XT90 anti spark (make this your self, it’s easy and inexpensive) between the batteries and the ESC and my voltage meter wired between the anti spark and the ESC. Everything works well, except for the added hassle of plugging and unplugging the anti spark. I have been running this setup for a couple of months without any issues.

Thanx for your answer @mrouiller… I tried to find out fuses and fuse holders to do it myself, but it seems they aren’t easy to find at high amperage (I want to use a 70A or 80A fuse)

Plus i actually don’t really know how to, even if it seems quite simple indeed…

What battery are you going to use? I think you will be fine without one.

So u confirm that the built-in (but removable) switch on the ESC can be kept, and that i can just set up the antispark with fuse between batt and ESC?

it’s going to be a 10S3P with sony vtc6… @darkkevind is currently on it…

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I know that this ESC has built in protections for over current and other stuff…

here’s a quote from @diyeboard: switch protection / maximum peak current protection / battery undervoltage protection / overcurrent / overvoltage / overload current limit current protection.

actually… if the esc is truely limited to 2*30A, it’s true that i wouldn’t really need a fuse… (vtc6 in 3P could supposedly discharge 90A…)