I followed the instructions. Powered up the vesc with the receiver already plugged in, held down the white button for 7 sec at the same time as holding down the button on the remote.
That pairing doesn’t work, try this
Have both receiver and remote off Plug in receiver to turn it on while holding down the button on the receiver(still holding onto receiver button) Hold the power button on remote to turn it on and have it enter pairing mode (you’ll hear a quick double beep) At this point the receiver light should be flashing rapidly indicating it’s communicating with the remote. If it’s not flashing by this point, turn everything off and try again. You should also be holding both receiver and remote buttons down at this point Let go the receiver button and confirm the receiver light is still flashing rapidly Pull the power off the receiver and release all buttons.
This worked for me, thanks @Jinra for helping me figure it out
Thank you for this, I tried it but I do not get any lights on at all during this process. Does the receiver light up upon connection to vesc? Mine does not.
The remote itself seems really good. Hope Benchwheel could provide me with a working receiver soon.
Yeah, it should light up. Looks like the last batch of remotes has problems, I hope they’ll solve them soon, cause it feels great and it would be perfect if it only worked well for everybody
Hey man I am looking a getting a 3D printer and the one you have looks quite good. There are a few different ones though and I’m wondering is it a clone from eBay or is it a legit one? If it is from eBay how well does it work?
Hi, I have the original prusa i3 mk2s. It is a very good printer well worth the money. It is not perfect, a bit fidly to assemble and get the frame straight, but when you get it up and running it is delivering good prints constantly. I would recommend it if you can accept their (approx) 7 weeks delivery time 
Small update: the ball bearings that comes with the 3D printer are not very good. Mine have now made marks in the smooth rods and needs replacing. Customer service has been good and fast.
Ok thanks I’ll check it out
I have tested it like this, with a old crystal based radio controller. Worked suprisingly well, but does not look very hot haha 
The motor mount came loose because of the vibrations and got some scratch marks. Used locktite now and it seems fine.
Printed a holder for the voltmeter, with cables routed through printed risers:
Also been working on the enclosures:
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the meter casing is nice~~ mind you share the file?
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Of course @benwong 
here it is: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2477483
If you print it with the display surface down on the heated bed, you will get a nicer result than me, I had problems with the PETG sticking to hard to my bed, so I wanted less surface in contact with the heated bed.
Really liking this build, coming together nicely. I’ve decided to put the V-meter on top like you…only in the back so I can quickly glance at it and not have to look at it all the time…it’s just so much more convenient and the added enclosure makes it really nice. I don’t care if it sticks out a bit - the ability to not have to pick up the board to look under it for the voltage percentage is totally worth it for me.
I’m kind of pragmatic about it so practicality comes before estethics in this scenario 
Plus we could then further develop the mount so it could hold the lights for night riding…add a bit of flair to the deck.
Yes, I think it is a more of a practical solution than aesthetical one. The reason for me to have it in front is mostly because I never put my foot so far in front. It works as a footstopper and since I have only one motor in the back, it is nice to be able to put some weight on the tail for some added traction up hills.
Absolutely. Are you thinking of mounting the lights too?
I might do that in the future. Also a anti-spark plug in this one could have been nice to have, for easy reach.
I’ve found it to be the most convenient to put a fused switch into the VESC enclosure instead of the anti-spark key. And it looks better too.
I agree, but the xt90 is cheaper and easy to do yourself. Also I kind of like having a “key” for the board
Haha good one 
Just wanna say that sanded down Malahat looks AMAZING 
Did you notice better high speed stability with the wider trucks?
Yes, very stable also I can highly recommend the deck if you want something comfortable and flexy, with a nice rocker and mild W concave.
The board is done and I have been riding it a lot lately and it just works great. It goes up all the hills in my area with ease and it goes faster than I dare to go. I get about 10km of range going up and down steep hills, which is good enough for me. Thinking of deactivating the regen feature because I always start at the top of a hill when the batteries are topped up, wonder if it does any damage to the batteries going a tad over 42v, we have pretty long hills here.
Since this was so much fun, and the project took a bit longer than anticipated, I used the spare parts from the build and put together a Loaded Tesseract to use in the meantime. I can highly recommend that deck also, it gives a more locked in feeling. I can imagine the Cantellated Tesseract must be one of the better decks for Esk8 builds.
I have to give thumbs up to Benchwheel for sending me another set with remote and receiver, this time it worked first try, following the instruction sheet it came with. I might still try the mini remote, since I feel more comfortable with a trigger release. In that case I would make a new casing for it, Its made for smaller hands and looks funny with that wheel on the side.
For the enclosures I used rubber anti vibration mounts, and it has been working flawlessly so far. The rubber takes up all the flex leaving the casing and components inside static. Casings have just enough clearance down to the deck for the rubber gaskets, so they can move freely at the same time as they are not too loose.
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