I don’t think “universal requirement” was the objective here, just be smart. Trampa is a special case as the enclosure is typically on top, specifically in the instances you are talking about. And Trampa is dumb so it doesn’t really count anyways :).
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This is a long-standing debate. The better choice depends a lot on the deck\enclosure being used.
A question for those that velcro right to the deck, what substrate do you use to dampen vibrations between the the deck and the components? Also, how do you attach it? Do you use foam and glue it to the deck? then affix velcro to foam?
Or do you just velcro\tape batteries and ESCs right to the wooden deck? Do the parts have material underneath them to provide some support from the enclosure?
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I’m in the boat of
-plastics like ABS/kydex and vacuum/heat formed should have components mounted to the deck
-fiberglass/composites/carbon enclosures are strong and can support the weight. And be padded. Just mount to enclosure
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My (limited) experience show:
(a) You can mount everything with Gorilla tape to the bottom of the deck, and it perfectly holds things in place. This tape is pretty strong and sticky.
(b) You can secure the battery to the enclosure and attach it by screws without a problem.
I have 10S4P battery attached just by 4 M3 screws. It perfectly holds it in place - there are no any signs of wear.
I think that the problems come not from the weight of the battery but from the flex of the board. Even stiff decks can flex a little bit. This puts a lot of stress on mounting bolts. If you use Boosted Board style dual enclosures, then there is no any stress on the bolts.
Here is how my Gorilla style board looked like before I mounted proper enclosures:
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I see no issue with mounting everything in the enclosure. If 1/8" ABS/kydex can’t hold our components, which are generally less than 10lbs, your doing something wrong.
What I’ve noticed is this, if your enclosure doesn’t match your deck close to perfectly…forget it. If it doesn’t match concavity at any point and you have to crank the bolts down in order for the enclosure to seal…forget it. In that case it will probably crack due to a combo of that internal stress, vibrations, and time.
If your enclosure matches the deck perfectly and you have at least 6+ solid mounting points, you can mount components in your enclosure all day long. Also, a nice thick gasket made of some rubber/neoprene goes a long way.
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It really depends on the specifics of your build. All my components are secured to the deck and the enclosure is just a cover that does supply extra security in keeping the batteries in place. It’s easy to mount electronics to the deck. Hard pack Lipos are easy to secure with servo tape. I have also done this with a Li-ion pack that was shrink wrapped
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Duct tape maybe
Gaffer tape might be doable…strong but doesn’t leave a sticky residue behind.
I use 1/8 neoprene… https://www.amazon.com/Primode-Neoprene-Finished-Adhesive-Purpose/dp/B071HT98F6/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1516984921&sr=1-13&keywords=1%2F8+neoprene
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Thx @mmaner - is it fire retardant? If you caught a case of thermal runaway it seems like neoprene would be nice fodder for the fireworks. Awesome that it’s already got adhesive!
I honestly have no idea. As its a rubber compound I would assume it would just melt.
If I have a battery explode under me, i’m not worried about flame ups…I’m gonna ride it like a rocket in to space and go out a fuggin legend! 
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HAHAHAHA 10char
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I have built both types. infact I have builds with no enclosure as well. and I have had success with all of them.
however… i can see that a weak enclosure would break from trying to support the weight under skate vibration stress.
strong enclosure though… no problems.
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The moral of this story is…
Pick up your board and bash it against a concrete wall wheels-first as hard as you can for 30 minutes. Because that’s exactly what happens to it while riding it. If it doesn’t break, you’re golden. No matter how you built it.
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who said this dumb stuff?
shit goes into the box with adhesives, box bolts to board.
the box becomes the battery case… the box is the shell, the armor. IF the sled falls the stuff needs to go with it not stay stuck on the board. Literally every commercial option does it this way. Enertion, Evolve, Arc Boards… nobody but DIY seems to fasten things to the deck then cover it.
It’s a perfectly valid method, and i’ve done it, but its certainly not the only correct one.
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Laughed way to hard when I read that… I need friends 
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Following. I definitely ruined my enclosure holes with the goodies being carried by the enclosure. I don’t see it happening with my cake pan but with the plastic enclosure on my Concave deck it became a serious problem. It wound up dragging on the ground eventually. Which is why I decided to use string 
. So I’m going to be building a new one with fiberglass when I get the replacement deck. I will be toying with the idea of securing the battery to the deck. I liked the tape idea with foam. Problem right now is that the battery pack is essentially the enclosure and it doesn’t want to come out.
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the spacecelll pro3/4s seems to be too brittle as I’ve seen numerous cracks and breakages. I had mine converted into a “regular” battery pack when I started noticing stress cracks forming around the bolts. The enclosure I have for the next build is made of fiberglass. I haven’t decided on how to mount yet
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