well you don’t spot weld on the solder - you put some spots of solder in between where the cells will be and then spot weld the prepared nickel strip to the cells - this is far easier than soldering after the nickel is welded and you don’t heat up your cells as much
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ah i see, makes sense
Thanks man! The board is a fking rocket!
I got the spot welder from here Tindie shop, the seller is a know member of endless sphere:
Kaly didn’tsent me the pulleys by mistakwem so I’m waiting on those, I though he was doinf a 36T for these builds, I might have been mistaken though
I added flexible 14AWG cable between each pack as additional from the flexible cables, so it should work ok.
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Yeah, I did that, hope they can hold good.
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why do you have a red and black wire going across? Are they in parallel to double the current?
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Yes, the flat cable is not enough to hangle the demand of currrent, so I’m adding an additional flexible cable to connect the packs.
ah okay 
was just wondering why the two different colors.
How much does this beast weigh?
I ran out of black 16 AWG wire 
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Which size is the flat cable? If it is made of copper it should be more than enough.
That’s a great price delivered and a Beautiful Build (Finish at 3AM, Classic!)
What does your 4P pack weigh once assembled (tabs welded and wired)?
You are absolutely right about the 18mph on 10S but ill be going 14S - 15S and presuming Kaly motors are efficient with decent bearings then ill be doing the Volt Up, Amp Down way I’ve always gone with eBikes…
14S @ 51.8v = 9842 RPM @ Shaft : 3.616 : 1 reduction = 2721.79 RPM @ Wheel / 336 * 3.27" = No load @ 100% 26.48 mph : 23.575mph @ 89% efficiency loaded
** 15S @ 55.5v = 10,545 RPM @ Shaft : 3.616 : 1 reduction = 2916.21 RPM @ Wheel / 336 * 3.27" = No load @ 100% 28.38 mph, 25.259 mph @ 89% efficiency loaded
The 15S is likely to be how I go and I can always adjust the motor and ABEC pulleys and re-tension if I want higher speed but this will allow me to run at full WOT loaded at nominal voltage and keep efficiency of the BLDC higher by using higher RPM, I spent my weekend fixing up a 3D printer so now I can print my own flywheel pulleys (and maybe even some motor pulleys too).
Great job man, thanks for the pictures and feedback!
Regards, Mike
What ESC will you use power 14-15s?
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Guess you understood something wrong. But at 10S Eboosted’s setup will be doing 28 mph, not 18 mph. Or maybe i misunderstood something.
How do you like the Board?
Frank
It’s pretty heavy, I’d say 25% more than the Bintang which is 15% more than the Evolve Bamboo GT
It weights exactly 24.42 pounds (11.1Kg)
Nico, the only thing wrong with the board are the brakes, they need more power on high medium speeds, these are my settings, would you suggest to increase battery min?
The reason for weak brakes at high speeds is that you are at a high duty cycle and the battery min is the limitation there. Let’s say you need 40A at the motor to get a nice brake. Then at 80% duty cycle with a battery min of -10 you only get -10 / 0.8 = -12,5A. So the slower you go the stronger the brakes will be. For example with this battery min you only get -40 at 25% duty cycle (-10 / 0.25 = -40). Luckily even at high speeds when you brake the duty cycle reduces very fast.
So you are right. If you raise the battery min you will get stronger brakes at higher speeds. For example if you raise it to -12,5 then the brakes will become 25% stronger at higher speeds.
By my experience this is the downside of big motors (6374 compared to 6355). But to be honest i didn’t make that many tests with them. Because in my normal board i have a huge battery which can handle 32A as max allowed continuous charge current. And this is always enough at any speed.
My personal idea is that you can go higher with the battery min as the specs of the battery allow it. (Most high current Li-Ion batterys only allow 4A). But i read somewhere that high pulses are good or at least not bad for the battery. But high continuous charge current are very bad for the cells for sure. But short pulses seems to be ok. But these are only my 2 cents about it without any scientific background to prove it.
And i would like to have strong brakes in emergency situations and use it gentle when i ride it normally at high speeds.
So for example when you go up to -12 (-24 total) then you go 50% higher than the specs. But the specs are the maximum that is allowed when you charge it for a couple of hours contentiously. And not for 2-3 seconds short bursts.
And if somebody wants to prove me wrong or right then please do that with some scientific background information. Otherwise we end up hijacking this thread with thoughts instead of useful information.
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So ,if I got this right, watt control is awesome when accelerating but when it comes to braking, current control gives you the strongest brakes at higher speeds. (?)
The brakes in watt control work exactly the same way as in current control. What I was talking about is how a bldc motor works.
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I’m using VESCs with upgraded caps to 100v low esr type but even 15S I only charge to 62.25v so it should work with a stock VESC but I’m not trying to thread jack this beautiful build 
He was referring to my very similar upcoming build, not his
Again, beautiful work!