This is the build log for my first electric skateboard. I know there was another one but I took a completely different approach once I bought a crapload of parts from @cliofreak
To introduce myself first, my name is Flim. And in my spare time, I love to hang out with friends and do all kinds of activities! I got hooked onto e-boards when my friend bought a Meepo. I got to ride it a couple times and I soon decided I wanted one myself. I could have bought one (I mean come on the backfire ranger x1 looks freakin awesome especially for the price). But I eventually decided I wanted to build one myself.
So here it is, may I introduce you to The Reborn. Well, why this name lol. the boards uses a lot of used parts, thus the name ‘The Reborn’.
Why the chosen parts?
Mostly because of the grande la grande buy from Cliofreak. I was originally planning to just go lipos and cheap motor, esc and stuff. But this deal was too tempting to pass . So I went with it. To not waste the great components I already had, I decided to go all out, stretch my budget as far as my pocket could go and get other decent parts too.
What I currently have:
- 90mm Flywheel clones + 80mm Slickrevolution
- Caliber 2 trucks and bushings
- Osprey deck (Stiff) + Fibreglass enclosure (Benclosures) with pre-drilled holes and hardware/gasket, including 10s LCD screen bonded in place
- G2TB remote and transmitter
- 10s4p Sanyo NCR18650GA
- 6473 Alienpowersystems motor 200 KV
- NEED 10s BMS I think 40/50 amps will do.
Alienware motor mount, clamp, and pulleys.
I got my battery yesterday. Still need to test it out.
I also managed to put together the drive train for the first time. However my wheel pulley keeps coming loose, so I need to find a way to let that stick.
Pictures will soon follow!
You need to put loctite on all bolts
It’s supposed to just slide in and it does, but it came loose 2 times today when I rode with it.
So I guess I’ll get a small bolt to hold the wheel and pulley together
what’s holding it on the other side?
Nothing. That’s why I need to put in a bolt.
I don’t know how the previous owner did this, he didn’t include this bolt.
Of the 3 holes 2 of them have broken bolts in them unfortunately.
itd be better to have a retainer on the other side and then use nuts and bolts rather than just threading into the wheel
For the BMS I just used a ‘charge only’ system. Cheap eBay job. Generic 10s BMS.
Re the pulley, the bolts on the AlienPowerSystem pulley sheared off and although I was tempted to drill out and rethread the wee legs of the pulley, I didn’t bother because it stayed in place fine when belt was tight. I mentioned that in my original sale. You could try putting electrical tape or heat shrink around the legs to ensure a tighter fit. I’d not drill into the wheel.
You didn’t have any problems with charge only? No drifting cells?
I had two packs fail on me on two different occasions. I swapped out the bms both times as all signs on here pointed to bad bms. However, I used the same cheap bms the 2nd time and it failed again. I know a bunch of guys on here that use charge only. I’d say, don’t cheap out on bms from my experience although charge only is quite common.
Tbh, there’s a chance I damaged them both during installation as I’ve just recently learned about the importance of connecting B- main wire first, then connect the balance wires. Well, I’ve discovered that info while building my 14s eBike.
i used the 80a 10s bms from bestech and its perfect tbh
As @mynamesmatt said, this is what you need
need some advice on the bms guys
I’ve already decided to use bms for both charge and discharge.
So I can buy a bestech bms with e-switch, or just a bms and a anti spark switch. For the second option I would go with:
And for the first, I have been waiting for someone to sell me a bestech bms but so far no luck. I don’t want to buy 2.
Bms and charger just arrived.
Now there’s a prolem. My bms câbles are too wide, they don’t fit in the bms