very nice! how did you remove the bearings? I was thinking about ceramic bearings for my all weather board, but the bearings were in there pretty tight, didnt want to break anything. did you work with heating/cooling or just brute force/hammering?
The Rocket | 4wd hummies hubs | 4x chaka vesc | 10s4p LG HE2 li-ion | CNC milled veneer pressed deck
It was a 2 man job for sure. It required a 2 pin spanner, an arbor press, 2 people with a lot of force, and I even CNC milled a tool out of steel to get the little bearing off. It was a lot of work the first time, but it’s easier now that we’ve done it. That high heat expoxy is way stronger than needed. Red locktight from here on out.
Quite a voyage! I hope the board is presently working great. Do you still have Hummie Hubs in this build? I’m about to start on a small build with FOC, Torqueboards VESCs, 12s1p, and Hummie Steel Hubs, but your experiences here have me worried about heat. I actually thought the steel hubs fixed this problem.
Do you think I’d also run into heat issues at 200-ish lbs? Or maybe have any advice on ways to mitigate it? For example, if I could limit the board to 15% grade or 15MPH, that’d be fine. I just don’t want it melting my bearings.
Everything’s working great. Only issue I’ve had since the new car tire rubber has been bearings. I would just watch how your riding. Weight has a factor for sure. Hummie weighs 50 pounds less than me and doesn’t have the heating issues like I do.
I also ride very aggressive. Quick stopping, and quick accelerations always. That eats up more amps and generates more heat. I also ride with a heavy backpack, so my riding weight is closer to 220-225 lb.
I also ride long distances at mostly full throttle (5 miles). And I have lots of hills on my route. Stick to flats and riding aggressive for shorter distances or a bit less aggressive for longer distances.
OR, just go quad 
IMO, I need quad motors with these motors in order to get the performance I need with out real heating issues.
The real beasts will be his new motors. I will upgrade this board to 4wd with those sooner or later with a higher kv.
Do you have any video of this beast in action???
If you look above, there’s a short clip maybe 20 posts above of being ridden by hummie. He didn’t push it’s limits though by any means, so it doesn’t really show it’s power, just more or less that it works, haha.
But I am working on getting videos together. I have 3-axis gimble coming this week so I can get more videos of this board.
Check back in a week or so, and I should have some new videos posted
@evoheyax except of being flat is there anything against to mill similar deck from 30mm thick maple plywood sheet?
Well you need something with a lot of strength. The problem with plywood is it’s inherently weak. I have tried and had some success. But at the end of the day, I figured out that it was better to press Canadian maple veneers. You get far better strength due to many cross and normal grain layers.
Not to say it can’t work, check out the board I did before this one. Basically what you are saying. But the problem is then you need a 20mm solid layer on the bottom instead of 5mm. It’s literally that much stronger.
It looks like your first board was made from solid wood (pine) and I’m talking about canadian maple plywood so basicly same lamination as you did just not in a bend form. There’s also a unidirectional plywood but this as I understand won’t be good because to gain strenght fibers should be crossed?
If the plywood is constructed of 1/16th of an inch or even 1/8th of an inch, you might be ok. I had a hard time findin such thing. I guess I should say technically, it was my third board that I made from Canadian maple plywood. It was strong on the outside layers but the inside was very fragile. That was the best maple plywood I could find.
if you can find.better stuff like what my board is made of power to you. I was not able to find any plywood pre made with the strength I got from pressin my own.
Ok thanks, now I get it 
I’ll try maybe and we’ll see.
There’s only one way to know. Worst case go me was I ha to do a solid 20 cm thick layer on the bottom. Made the board super thick, but it did work
I just checked and one layer is 1,66mm so I’ll have about 18 of them. I was also planning to made an insert from carbon fibre pipe if that will be nesesery.
Has the red lock tight been holding up or did you find it’s not strong enough?
To hold the motor on? Never had any issues with red loctite failing, except on the inner ring. This is one of the reasons the new motors use a C-Clip instead.
In terms of holding the motor on the axle, this will never fail. Too long of a threaded surface. It took a 10 foot long wrench with an abor press and tractor piece on the end meant to open tractor engines. It worked in getting it off, but it took 2 people over 30 minutes to get it off. It’s so hard, that theres no way it will ever come off on its own…
@evoheyax hey you mentioned something about chaka doing a quad VESC earlier in this thread. What exactly does he do? I am working on a 4WD and am not exactly sure how to setup 4 VESC’s. Is this a service he sells or just helping out a friend?
he doesn’t even make vescs anymore…
Oh, ok, just wanted to know. It was mentioned earlier in the thread.
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All he does is create a plate that holds the 4 vescs, puts them together so the caps are on top of the vescs, creating a smaller profile, and puts a canbus cable so they are all together…
I have realized though that with higher power (5000w+), you need more caps. So I will be disassembling it soon to upgrade the caps and reassembling using a new plate I’ll CNC mill myself.
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