The Steve | Generic Deck | TB Hardware | SK3 245 | TB6S ESC | FS GT-2B

Wow, how’d you do that? Are you using the heat shrink for it?

Just using poor quality tools. My bad. All my quality tools are for small things, all my larger stuff is garbage. Only knew about the heatshrink after it was mentioned here. You mean where the mount clamps the hanger, Yeah?

Was it supposed to be in the kit? It only came with 3 small pieces that look as though they are meant for the motor connection. Had some on hand so all good now (aside from the obvious).

1 Like

It’s only meant to wrap around the truck and not used to heatshrink around it. This means you don’t have to apply any heat towards it.

Lol i just asked @torqueboards ab those :smile:

In the pic its just slipped on, not shrunk or did you mean the 3 pieces from the kit go between the mount and the hanger?

Yeah, it’s slipped on. You’ll only need one typically. Just include extra just in-case. It goes between the truck hanger and the truck clamp. Fit them on together and it should be real snug.

Ahh, I’m with ya. So this, right?

Add more as needed. Should I take the bit I slipped on the hanger off?

1 Like

Yup… you should take the one you have off.

1 Like

Awesome, thanks for taking the time to spell it out for me. I’ve been stuck in ‘stupid mode’ this weekend.

1 Like

No problem at all. :slight_smile: It should be real snug. It shouldn’t be hard to clamp it down and you shouldn’t be able to move it at all.

Time to get drastic. Maybe get a torx bit of similar diameter and bang it in?

Thanks, those things won’t get much use otherwise. Will try a few things at work this week starting with that.

Lol, sorry if I sound desperate to people reading, but don’t buy another mount just for a bolt. I have tried using JB-Welding a socket onto a strip nut with success in the past. I’m just tossing ideas out there for you.

compress the clamp in a drill vise, that should take the pressure off the bolt and allow it to be easily removed.

1 Like

Just tried using the same slipping bit but in a clamp with no success. Had some JB on hand I’d never used, so have a sacrificial phillips head bit (about the size of the hole) setting now. Will give it 8 hours then try it with the clamp again. (edit) I see it needs 24 hours to fully cure, will wait till then.

Does JB weld go bad in an un-opened tube over time? Not sure when I got it but I let it cure about 30 hours & it failed with almost no torque.

Might just go back to plan A: Buy a new drive kit, swipe the hanger clamp and leave the a problem for a future build. Maybe strip the paint, have it welded on & give it to someone else at a reduced cost.

1 Like

Seems like you butchered it :wink: Send me a PM. I’ll discount a replacement for you.

Thanks for the offer, you’ve been a huge help but I should probably pay for my own mistakes. Will be a few weeks before I can place another order anyway.

JB weld never works for stuff like this. You can also try a left hand drill bit. The counter clock-wise action of the bit will pull the bolt out as it spins. (versus a tradition drill bit that tightens it)

For future reference, the correct response is to cut the bolt with a dremel:

Was easy to get out after that. Only problem now is the guy is focusing his funds elsewhere at the moment (should of taken a deposit!). I’ll put it aside for a month till he gets his house reno’s done or set it up for someone else with Li-ion, a BMS & abs enclosure.

1 Like