Ahhhh. Good idea
You need these:
Great stuff.
No P groups should be left rubbing against each other, this is the main cause of fire.
Just received a pack of these specific adhesive fish papers and they are great! interesting to see that the material is very similar to that used in automotive gasket material. Just wondering if anyone happens to know if the two materials are one in the same(sans the adhesive of course and thickness)? I have a ton of it laying around in the garage from all the car projects over the years, would be great to use it up instead of wasting it.
I believe that they are technically both vulcanized paper, just not sure if there are additional parts to âfishpaperâ?
Thankyou @Eboosted for this post! Can not recall a time when I didnât fall at the last hurdle because of a tiny element. In between builds right now so time to start accumulating. I love adding to cart!! Side note; What spot welder would you recommend?
this one any good. Not for any kind of commercial use just my own repairs etc.
i second that!
Iâve got most the things from this list. But wanted to ask west people thought of these Facebook keeps pushing them on me.
Ainât nobody got time for facegram or snapbook or instachat or whatever.
Iâd just recommend soldering the wires and using silicone conformal coating or some other conformal coating like polyurethane or acrylic after you connect them.
Got time for a lot when im stuck at work till 5am 7 days a week.
Second! Ten char. They also have socket drives
I tested them, theyâre good, i think especially for extending motor sensor wires. Iâve not found a stronger small splice. I prefer to crimp, but these are just so small.
Available generically on ebay/amazon/ali.
I see this just popped up, for those who need flatter. Amass brand. Hoping theyâre good.
I like these xlr for charge port
thingiverse has 3d printable covers if you want more watertight. XLR is rated for 10amp (I think).
For fish paper, get this one, it comes as a roll. Some different sizes.
And guys I just got some split loom wire braid. These are PET. cheaper but not so heat resistant. Best bets seem to be TechFlex F6 or Wang-data on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XGWD11B/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MRLJ93K
Upgrade version, this stuff is heat resistant and not open weave, so will resist dirt/moisture. Comes with self-fusing silicone tape to do up the ends. Itâs not as rigid as above but I think better for the motor phase/sensor wires.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU7EKPC
Speaking of silicone self-fusing tape, this stuff is very cool if you can get it for cheap
Okay this instamorph stuff is really cool. Too bad we canât use it where it gets hot. Iâm using it for antispark loop key
https://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-32-oz/dp/B015TRGC7S/
A couple of recent additions to my toolbox. Beginning my other build with ESCapes which requires some jst tinkering. Picked up these to make can cables and JST-PH ends for the PPM servo cable. Can also be used to make jst cable adapters (probably wonât for this project though as I will be swapping pre-existing wires) or to attach new ends to connections that have come loose. I think from now on Iâll just buy connectors I need and make any new cables lol Gotta collect something amâiârite
Especially those two on the left. You can use womenâs clear nail polish as a substitute for the acrylic conformal coating but itâs not as good as the special-purpose stuff.
Waterproof that mf
Will you link a good place to purchase? I need these in my repertoire
amazon
search âmg conformalâ
Amazon, MG Chemicals Acrylic Conformal Coating, and silicone conformal coating. The price jumps around on the silicone. Thereâs a urethane conformal coating too. But the other two are the main ones needed. Normally $10-$15 each. (silicone is $20 atm)
Perfect, thanks guys!
I get them from eBay. You can probably skip the Urethane one. Get the other two.
The acrylic one is watery and can get in tight places. Itâs very thin - you can put a single coat on a heatsink even.
The modified silicone one is a tad thicker and more robust and seems better to deal with vibrations and possible physical contact. I would keep it away from heatsinks as it may act as a blanket.
Basically, I use the modified silicone one unless I have to use the acrylic one. The acrylic one has a more aggressive solvent too that will turn any kind of electrical tape and similar things into a pile of goo.
Acrylic for - heatsinks, tight places where you canât get a brush Silicone for - everything else Urethane for - places fingers will touch (loopkey), where you need THICK
Acrylic & Silicone more âinternal and on PCBâ and Urethane more âexternal and enclosureâ
They all glow under UV so you can check if you missed any spots.
fishpaper, bigger than my bed lol