"Tico" *UPDATE*/Red Ember Bludgeon/dual Maytech 6374S 170kv/ FOCBOX/20-60 PSYCHO 6SHOOTERS/ 12s5p bypass 30q/psycho mounts and enclosure

So this is how i had it when i was on ackmaniac 2.54, on 3.1the braking curve takes the same shape as the acceleration curve and they are both more less step and slightly more linear. It takes a lot of tuning but this is a nice start. Gotta ask yourself;

  1. Hard acceleration or easing into it
  2. Hard brakes or soft with increased intensity as i continue to pull
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@mmaner

Hell yeah!

Today is my tuning day! First on the docket was to figure out why I wasn’t getting telemetry.

I was about to pull off the enclosure (ugh), but deleted the ack app, reinstalled and connected, BOOM! Telemetry coming through, problem solved… took 2 minutes.

What do you do WRT throttle curve?

Just set up my @Ebisane9 throttle curve to try out! Thanks man! I will report after I check it out

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This is how I typically do my acceleration/braking curves but its on 2.54.

I haven’t experimented with 3.x yet. I’m thinking about doing that this weekend on my gear drive.

Mike, I also have two other quandaries.

How are you doing belt tension? Do you loosen the motor everytime you pull the belt on/off, or do you find the right tension, set it and leave it?

If it isn’t the latter, I don’t know how to access this bolt when everything is mounted:

I am assuming you set tension on the other three, pull off the wheel, tighten that inside one, then reassemble?

Any reason not to just run the 3 on the outside that are easy to get to with the wheel on?

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Oh yeah, thats way different

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I thread all 4 screws until tight and then back off 1/8 turn, put the wheel and belt on, tighten the wheel, slip the belt on both pulleys. The last part takes a little fiddling…

Put the hex key in the outermost screw, pull the motor back until you have the right belt tension then back off about a 1/16 in. Tighten that one little bastard of a screw you’ve been trying not to knock the hex key out off :slight_smile:.

Pull the wheel off and tighten the other 3 screws, put the wheel back on and test the fit.

You will lose that 1/6 in you backed off when you tighten everything else up.

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Honestly, not really. I’ve run 50mm motors for a couple of hundred miles with only 2 screws, but that one time the motor slips and the wheel binds on the belt (equals sudden and maddening stop) will ruin that for you forever.

God its so tempting.

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took me ages to figure this out… my tools were too short 2 so it made it really hard doing with things in place :joy:

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Yep, took me awhile too. :slight_smile:

Let me know how that goes! :smiley: definitely isn’t a one stop shop. @mmaner and i actually have similar curves. the difference being you can’t really smooth out the curves on 2.54 if i remember correctly. Looking at his curve;

  1. Initial acceleration is very nice, then it eases off a little bit and picks up as you continue to pull the throttle.

  2. Initial Braking is harder as well, then as you slow down the intensity reduces and you can ease into a stop

It’s a nice curve he has set up. Give them all a try :smiley:

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I can’t wait until I can just “read” them like that! Rad!

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Yeah, its vastly different between 2.54 and 3.x. I have mine built so that the acceleration and braking are slow response at the beginning and the progressively faster as you increase the throttle. This seems intuitive to me as most control issues happen at slow speeds, there’s not much difference in balance from 20 to 25 mph but there is a ton between 2 and 7 mph.

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Well said, that makes perfect sense

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Wheel side will actually affect how your curve is as well, when i switched to 107’s with 16/36 still as my gearing ratio, i had to give myself more initial oopmh in order to contend with that gearing ratio. So i made the beginning more linear.

the straight line from the 2.54 bldc tool is just awesome if you ask me. You can see your starting point (pink linear graph) and then edit the curve but still have the initial for reference.

Rule of thumb for acceleration: above the line is harsher, below is mellow. (As compared to stock)

@mmaner i actually like that curve better than mine :confused: i tried downgrading from 3.1 to 2.54 last weekend but you can’t jump backwards from ‘3’ to ‘2’ software is what i found

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You should be able to use the 2.54 ESC Tool (ack) and downgrade the firmware to 2.54. I’ve done it on FocBoxs a couple of times. If you need some assistance hit me up.

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Finally getting to gripping this thing.

I made my own little y spacer @mikenyc!

Not a perfect jig, we shall see how it goes…

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good luck. those hexes and the pattern require a fine line of drinking…enough to make it tolerable but not so much that crooked lines look straight :slight_smile:

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Funny you say that, I cracked a noon beer to deal with this beautiful disaster.

Making progress.

1

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looking good brudda. If you get bubbles, use a sewing needle to pierce the bubble then push the air out. A heat gun will work too on small bubbles. Just be careful as the heat will release the glue so they’ll slide if you touch them.