Please note that this is, at the moment, just a rough draft of the board. Much will change before it is completed.
Introduction.
So this will be my second e-board build and this time I’ve opted for a more stealthy approach. I’ve yet to purchase any of the parts and I’m not committed to anything really, so I’ll gladly consider any pointers you have. Especially when it comes to the electronics and the stiffnes of the board.
I weigh 65kg/144lbs, so I’m a pretty light guy and it’s pretty flat where I live. But I do run into some over/under passes where I’ll need to be able climb short but steep hills.
Sources of inspiration.
As you’ll notice, it heavy influenced by inboards board the M1 and Actons board the Blink S2. Hopefully you’ll see a little bit of a TIE fighter in there as well. The cable management is “borrowed” from that “longhairedboy” guy who makes some awesome builds.
Goals:
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Stealthy.
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One port charging solution that balances the cells.
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Low maintenance.
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Be able to stand upright on its own.
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22km/14miles of range, though I rarely need more than 15km/10miles.
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Decent hill climbing capabilities.
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Not be a pain the a** to actually carry when I need to do that.
Execution.
First I will glue the birch plywood to the correct thickness, then using my router I will carve out the room for the electronics and get the rough shape of the board.
Once the wooden base is done I will cover the underside with two layers of carbon fiber with red epoxy resin. I might add one to the inside, just to strengthen the core. I do like flex in my boards, but this will be the first time I work with carbon fiber, so I doubt I’ll be able to make it flexible and yet strong enough. This board will be pretty stiff.
The board will then be painted black with a vinyl stencil of the Imperial logo from Star Wars. Once the vinyl is removed the logo will be red since the base colour of the board is red. As the board is used and gets scratched up I think it’ll look even better since the scratches will bring forth the red. I’ve consider white instead of red but I’m leaning towards the red.
The 36(6S6P) 18650 cells will be spotwelded and hooked up to a cheap BMS that is bypassed. The BMS is only there for the charging of the cells. I’m counting on the VESCs to cut power once the voltage gets too low. Though I seldom drain my board that low.
The top deck
As you can see in the pictures(below), I don’t have a top deck. This will be screwed on. Instead of having small trap door style hatches I’ll be able to easily just remove the whole top when I need to service the board. There will be a rubber gasket around the whole top deck to make sure no dust and water gets in there. That will also help make the top deck concave. I hope to be able too keep the top deck under 6mm/15/64inches in thickness. The top will have the exact same shape as the top part of the lower deck and will be mounted by screws.
Also, the whole board measures 85cm/33.4inches long, 22cm/8.66inches wide, 1.5cm/0.59inches at its thinnest point and 7.5cm/3inches at its thickest.
The trucks will have risers and I’ll be using 90mm wheels.
The small hole on the underside is for a charging port and the bigger one for a switch.
Parts list:
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Motor, wheels and trucks. Note that the 90mm ones that I will be using are black. You can see them on diy’s “freeflow” board.
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Samsung 25R 18650
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Wii kamanunchuck(preferably black)
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Some chinese BMS.
Rough scetches
The Imperial logo that will be on the belly of this beast.
Last but not least, the picture that got me started on this project.
Notes.
It’s late and I’m tired - I will most likely have forgotten some things. I’ll update later if that’s the case. If you’re wondering anything, ask away! If you have any pointers, please point away! This was modeled using SolidWorks.
Cheerios