Yep. Exactly. Your printer has to be calibrated. Make sure when you are printing a hollow square of wall thickness 1mm, you are getting 1mm. Also the dimension of a solid cube should be very close to true dimension in all three directions and walls should be perpendicular to each other.
But like pedro said before, the belt will take care of the exact fit in a few minutes.
Thatâs the blessing and the curse of 3D printed pulleys, in the first 10âs of kilometers they will wear down and make the fit perfectly, in that phase they are astonishing quiet, but after that they wear past the perfect point and the noise increases a lot, my board still really quiet when breaking since that face of the tooth doesnât take load all the time
But they last and are cheap for rapid prototyping, so thatâs ok for me, Iâm almost at a 1000 km on this set
Nice! I am beyond 400km on FDM printed pulley and surprised that they havenât shown signs of significant wear. In my previous board(back when I didnât trust FDM printing), I got the pulleys printed from shapeways using Nylon SLS and have lasted me more than 2000 or so kms.
follow the instructions for using openscad as described in the above thinverse link to generate any pulley profile, size with rims you wish, then save as stl and import into your cad software.
With my cr-10, 80 tooth HTD5 ones have printed flawless every time, 100% infill, outershell at a very low speed like 10mm/s the rest at regular speed.
However first calibrate your extruder by measuring how much filament it actually extrudes vs requested. Then print a calibration cube.
You cannot use a single arc to create a proper sprocket tooth profile because the sprocket tooth will either hook the belt as it leaves the tooth or you will have very poor contact between the belt tooth and the sprocket tooth. I can teach you how to to create the involute curve and ultimately the sprocket tooth profile but I wonât do it through a group site. Iâll leave that to you to share.
These are sprockets that I manufactured for road racing go karts. Below the sprockets are the cad models for the supercharger rotors for my blown alcohol dragster that I raced until I down sized to go karts. Making things mesh is my game.