TorqueBoard Caliber ii motor mount becomes loose all the time?

Finally got all parts for my board, went out for a test drive and it becomes loose after a few seconds.

I used good loctite, and it’s really tight on there but it seems like it “eating” into my trucks?

Anyone else running same truck and mount that had the same issue and fixed it?

  1. make sure that the four grub screws are actually tapped all the way through. mine had a grub screw that was not tapped through and thus was not extending far enough into the D opening to actually grip the hanger. Just remove the D ring and try screwing all grub screws as far in as they can. I bet you’ll find that one of the screws does not protrude far enough into the D.

  2. Only use 2 adjacent grub screws to pin the hanger against the other side of the D. Make sure the opposite two grub screws are completely out of the way when you pin the hanger. Only once the initial two grub screws are locked in, you can tighten the opposite side’s grub screws.

I tried all of this i think, when i just got it i followed their guide on how to mount it and it was really solid i could hammer it and it would say on there.

But after the ride the screws ate into the metal almost and made it loose again.

Are we talking about the clamp version with the additional screw that squeezes the whole thing on? Or do you have the one with only 4 setscrews?

A picture or two may also be useful. I have had both versions of this mount and currently use two on my build.

The grub screws will inset about 1mm into the hanger. That is not a big deal.

Are you sure you tested out to make sure the grub screws are tapped all the way through the D ring? I have 3 mounts right now and all of them have 1 grub screw hole that is messed up.

After realizing this, my mounts have not moved since. I use blue loctite.

Yep, its dead center i can see all the 4 screws when i use a flashlight.

Feels super secure, and i used blue loctite as well hmm.

I saw another person with geniue caliber trucks on fb that also had to tighten it ever day.

I don’t think you’re understanding what I’m trying to say…

First off, you’re not suppose to be able to see all 4 grub screws around the hanger. You’ve mounted it wrong if that is the case.

Secondly, my point about making sure the grub screws are tapped, can only be confirmed with the D ring off the hanger.

I think i understood this correctly, your saying i had to make sure they are all tapped in correctly and they are.

They are all tighten down as much as my allen key allows me to do so.

But did you tighten two of them first, then tighten the other two so that the wall of the D is taking most of the force?

Make sure you’ve let the loctite sit for a while too. I think you’re supposed to give it a day.

1 Like

I know thanks, i put the trucks and stuff on there back in August i just got my battery last week so that should have been okay.

The pot aluminum used on those caiber 2 hangers is too soft. Even if you do get it tight with four grub screws, as soon as the metal deforms everything will be loose again. I’m not trying to promote my mounts, but it’s why I stopped making mounts for caliber. You guys can keep battling the shit fit of caliber clamps or just realize it’s a lost cause.

Enertion had the best clamp for Calibers hands down :slight_smile:

1 Like

Aside from the lack of adjustability, pigeon holing you into having to use huge risers, I do agree.

1 Like

TB forgot the most important part in the instructions: use jb weld. Otherwise it’ll keep moving.

1 Like

That Therrrrr is the only thing outside of a proper weld that is going to make those mounts solid.

Yeah the clamp is great but the whole mount itself not so great lol

1 Like

Sugru the wonder stuff is used by @Nowind may be fit for purpose here

my mount from @psychotiller is being held by jb weld (and one screw, i drilled a holes and tapped it for m8).

it hasn’t budged

1 Like