I think the 6380 has a little more torque and a longer stator, but other than that I dont know much about the difference.
I just need to know what the effect of lower volts and longer stator of 6380 is if anything besides more torque.
Waddaknow. I have both of them sitting right here in front of me
the 6380 is bigger then the 6374. (Read it like 63x80mm and 63x74mm Literally the sizeof the motors) Same width (63mm) but the 6380 is 6mm (1/4") taller.
The winding (The copper that is wound around inside the motor) is diffrent between the two.
The 190kv motor has less turns (how many times the cover is wrapped around the stator) so it will spin faster per volt applied. To be precise, it will spin 190 times per volt applied (190kv)
Which means, you guessed it
The 170kv motor has MORE turns, so it will spin slower, but with more torque then the 190kv motor. It will spin 170 times per volt applied.
6380 is 6mm taller then the 6374. (And weighs a tad more too) 6374 190kv will spin 20 spins faster per volt applied then the 6380 170kv motor 170kv motor will have about 30% more torque. (5.06Nm vs 3.57Nm)
They both take the same amount of amps and the same max voltage.
They have the same exact shaft protruding from the motor. (Same length, keyway, flatspots)
This is one of the best answers I’ve seen.
I bet someone will come in asking about the battery config and then erpm limits and headroom of each.
Yes I agree! Thank you CoolRextreme.
But really, what battery are you planning on using? And esc?
No problem mates!
Figuring out how to translate the jargon is a bit of a learning curve, but it helps a ton Its especially helpful how Torqueboards lists the motor info for each of the motors they sell.
I forgot to mention though, You can’t go wrong with either motor. They are both very nicely sized, and have plenty of power.
However, the can (main black body) of the 6380 is 80mm long. You can’t run dual 6380 on most trucks due to it’s length.
If you want to run dual 6380 now, or plan on pimping out in the future, Torqueboards offers extra-wide trucks (218mm hangers)
218mm - 28mm(14mm per wheel) - 160mm(80mm per motor) - 6mm(3mm per mount) - 24mm(12mm per 9mm pulley) = 0mm as an estimate…tight but doable
I was going to go with 6380×2 but now I think 6374×2 is better for me. Using one 6374 and one 6380 doesn’t sound like a great idea…? I am going to put one on the front truck, one in back on opposite side, front one mounted reverse (both towards the middle). I think 180mm trucks are ok, but maybe staying stable at high speed would be easier on 218mm trucks?
Very well done! On paper, yes. Real life application offers a bit better outlook
(Excuse the HIDEOUS pictures)
Setting the 6380 over my current (dual 6355 with 12mm wheel pullies and torqueboard mounts) setup w/ the motor’s edge right up to the mount. Perhaps 3-6mm off the midline. Tight indeed. HOWEVER (next picture)
I only have one spacer for each wheel installed, and still could push the wheel out another bolt-width (about 6mm?) So, if I added a spacer, I could push the wheel out 6mm. Which means I could push the motor mount out 6mm, which means I could add 6mm space (On both sides if going dual) for a total of +12mm space Thats half an inch easy
But in all practicality. If you are going dual on a board you are planning for commuting/roads, dual 6374 is PLENTY. Heck, I use a dual 6355 lol.
No need for dual 6380s unless you are building a mountainboard, or plan on racing up hills so steep you’d be scared to stand going up them anyways
Dual 6374 is the best call.
As for stability, I have no idea. (trying to get there myself lol)
But this thread will help with your rubbers!
12S5P 30Q and FSESC 6.6+ but I’m not sold on the esc
Whats not to like about the ESC?
It’s pricey and I have to extend three motor wires and the sensor wire. I’m being a baby about it because I’ve never soldered before, but I should be able to figure it out, and its low stakes because its just wires. I liked the idea of 2 single FSESC 6.6 too.
If the wire gets to hot it can damage the board
The long motor wires? How would I avoid hot wires in the diagonal drive wheels setup?
If you solder them…my bad
Don’t let the heat from the soldering travel up the wire…if you can’t hold it a few inches from the point you’re soldering it’s too hot
It wont be connected to anything when I’m working on it.
If you not in an urgent need of sensor wire extensions…
You can also install the motors on one truck one forward, one backward facing if your board and enclosure allows you to do so.
I’m trying to diy my wrecked metroboard dual but better. I don’t have any parts from it.
its behind this guy