I started off with removing all the screws, cleaning them & then reinstalling them. The front ones got Loctite 242 & the ones facing inwards got some Locitite 272. Here’s quick video of me applying it - not relevant in any way, I just wanted to try out my new camera.
You mean I can just put a hex tool where the grub screw goes and pull it out? Or is the “rear plate” you’re talking about that black(darker than the rest) that’s sitting around the bearing in the last picture?
Sorry just saw this thread now. Glad u figured out what was causing the noise. As far as the reduced resistance while spinning the wheel, thats pretty curious. If two phases are shorted together you’d get increased resistance, but I cant think of anything off the top of mynhead that would reduce it other than you not having the axle nut on that motor torqued to the same spec as the other side.
Do what @BigBoyToys said and touch two of the phase wires together to see if there’s increased resistance. It doesn’t look like anything is wrong from the video. You could always hook it up to an ESC to see how it reacts, just don’t apply too much throttle unless it’s working correctly.
Frankly I prefer the free roll and quiet sound of the one you took apart.
Maybe take the other one apart and clean it as well so they both have better free roll.
As long as they push the board when you give it throttle and performance has not diminished then
“Don’t Worry, Be Happy”
But I can’t see how me just cleaning of debris/residues of from the backplate helped. I guess the way I put it back together was perhaps a little better than they do on the assembly line, resulting in less friction/pressure on the bearings?
Still looks the same and fits just as well as the other one.
If I where you, I’d take the motor, plug it to a vesc. Do detection and see what your top erpm is and get the voltage of your battery at that instance. Devide the erpm by 7 (number of pole pairs) and then, by your voltage and you’ll have a kv. Both motors should be the same. The pitch of the noise changes with different kv, so maybe, they aren’t a true match? It’s actually harder with smaller motors like these cause you need between 25-35 turns to get a good kv. Larger motors need less turns.
Also, do an FOC resistance test. That will give some indication usually if theres a short. Both motors should be close. Do it a few times on each as the numbers can bounce around a bit.
So I got both of them hooked up to my old VESC and did a motor detection and then ran them both for a while in BLDC(sensorless).
So far so good, it seems. Their pretty quiet too! I’ll have to do some more testing, but both seem to function! The one running is the one I had some trouble with earlier. If it turns out that the “faulty” one is just as good as the other one, I’m tempted to open up that one as well just to see if I can make it go as smooth as the “faulty” one But I’ll have to do some more testing(like @evoheyax suggested) to make sure it has the same torque/speed later when I’ve got the rest of the board settled.