TorqueBoards Nano Remote - Throttle Fix?

I’m using the Nano remote from diyelectricskateboards, and when I move the throttle it seems like I have maybe 3mm between no power and full speed. I’ve searched the forums but I can’t find any concrete answers as to how I can adjust the throttle.

Also I did check out the extended bldc tool by @Ackmaniac, but from the comments it seemed like some people couldn’t fix the issue with it.

The remote has to be calibrated between each use (power cycle). Simply throttle all the way forward and all the way back so the remote knows what max/min throttle is, otherwise the slightest movement will result in full throttle/full brake. This is also true on the Enertion Nano-X (raptor 2) remote.

It’s an unfortunate design flaw, but I think it comes with the territory for auto-bind remotes.

So the process is

  1. Turn on the remote
  2. Press the throttle all the way forward/back
  3. Turn on the board/reciever

And then it should be calibrated?

Yea you can do it that way. For me I do this.

  1. Turn on board
  2. Turn on remote
  3. Very quickly throttle up and down (takes less than half a second) before it pairs
  4. Remote pairs

The only thing you have to be mindful of is not have the throttle anywhere other than neutral when the pairing actually happens (light goes from blinking to solid). Otherwise you’re neutral will be wherever you had the throttle when it paired.

Thanks! I tried it out and the last 30% of the forward throttle is still full power, but that’s better than what I had before. If I have to do this pairing setup every time, I might get rid of my anti-spark loop and just get a vedder switch

What does your remote have to do with your power switch :thinking:?

Keep in mind when using current/watt control your throttle does not directly control your speed, but rather your acceleration.

Well when I tried that process, it was just kind of a pain to pull the key in and out to restart the process if I didn’t get the calibration right. But if I just have to flick a button then it wouldn’t be as much of a hassle.

Maybe I’m making excuses to get an actual switch lol

Ah gotcha. Yea I find my push button to more elegant, though I prefer flip switches myself.

Do you have a recommendation for one that’s reliable? I keep hearing about people blowing their vedder switches

I use the torqueboards switch. I’ve heard of people blowing those as well, but mine has lasted nearly a year of constant use and I’ve been fine. You could try one with direct fets as they may last longer. The ones that blow tend to have their fets blown to a always on/off position.

Good to know, that’s probably the one I’ll go with

One possible fix or workaround would be to implement option for stick arming on the (V)ESC, like quadcopters flight controllers have. You would be unable to start the motors before some stick movement up and down, basically calibrating remote. That would require modifying (V)ESC firmware and not many people are able to do that. I proposed it in Ackmaniac’s thread because he is doing a great job on the modified firmware but there were no replies. I started some work myself but there is simply no time for everything :slight_smile:

You can permanently bind the remote to the receiver so you dont have to calibrate anymore. Ill try to find the link with instructions on how to do this.

Probably thinking of v1 Nano and not v2. But if yo do mean v2, that would be awesome :slight_smile:

Yea it is for the V2 Nano. Both my Buddies did it with theres.

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Hell yeah, if you find the instructions I’ll finally switch from v1! Only for the shape, v2 is nicer :slight_smile:

So you basically jump the ground and signal pins on the receiver pins on the bind channel. Then power board up. Hold channel 2 button in and power up the remote. Wait for lights to go solid and Center the throttle with a spring flick ( pull back to full brake then let go ). Pull bind pin to set failsafe. Turn off board and remote. Adjust endpoints in bldc software if you have to and you’re good to go. @Deckoz is this correct?


yea…basically the only reason i say spring flick to let it recenter is it allows the spring to naturally center. once it naturally centers, pull the bind pin and it sets the failsafe.

you should have self healing(recovery) of failsafe which wont require rebooting the board to rebind like autobind requires as well

omg if this works, Imma love you.

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