@Jeff - The washers on which location are you referring too?
Oh I meant what Allen key.
If possible, I would ensure a washer goes between every single bolt head/aluminum interface, that would be the propper way to do it. I would make 100% sure there are washers at least where I circled in red since that’s where the bending stress will be located
<img src=“https://esk8content.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/uploads/db2454/original/2X/9/91b84c4c65a9f9e76e01ae2a6fcddf296dfa0f6d.png” width=“275” height=“500”
Also I have had bad experiences with the allen key opening stripping out on button head screws. There is just less material for the allen key to bite into (easy to mess up and strip).
I don’t know if I agree with you on needing washers. It looks like those already have a wide surface area contact with the aluminum. As far as stripping them out. if you’re careful and have the correct size allen keys/screws, that shouldn’t really be an issue.
There is a reason allen head bolts are so popular in engineering/machining.
Me too, man. In my opinion all of that is just extra fluff anyway, like fairings and bags on a chopper.
I am not saying it won’t work as is. Just that there are small changes you can make to basically eliminate any potential for failure.
Button head allen screws can’t take as much fastening torque as socket head cap screws (just less material around the allen key port). Again, not saying those won’t work, but for people like me who ride rough pavement a lot, you want the security of really torquing things down.
nothing throws screws like shitty asphalt and concrete. Sidewalks are the worst, but i’ve lost plenty of fasteners in the street as well.
Thread locker and fastener reduction are the two best weapons, and replacing with socket caps where possible is a great idea also. Its not always possible in motor mount plates though, but it looks like here there might be room.
stripped button caps are a snap with a cutting wheel and a flathead screwdriver though. I have a drawer full of them in stainless steel and when the allen key slips once its dremel time. I spend zero time fucking around with that. but i guess that’s not for everyone.
@Jeff -
You can add a washer between every bolt. I originally was planning on it but it also adds to the width if you need that added space. I’ll look into adding it to every order as just an option. But I don’t think it’s needed. These bolts on these area are 16mm in length. 5mm for the motor mount and a 12mm truck clamp.
I agree w/ the button head screws stripping and for that reason I prefer cap head but the cap head definitely adds to the length of the bolts. I might add it again in the near future similar to my old weld on mounts.
sounds good. My V3 mount is still working great btw, socket head, washers and all 
I’ve gotta jump in on this thread. Just finished installing this kit as a dual setup with TB’s 6355 motors. These mounts are easy to install and very solid. Truck mounts are 1/2" thick Motor mounts are 3/16" thick. They gave a huge range of mounting options. In front or behind the trucks. And motor hieght fully adjustable for a balance between ground and deck clearance. To shim the truck mount for final fit, I cut shims out of an old tape measure. Because the tape blade is pre-curved, it fit perfectly under the top of the mount. 3 shims under each mount and when tightened down they’re so tight that it feels like there welded on. I would highly recomend this kit!
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When did you get yours?
Got mine about 4 days ago and went right to work on it. Had to relocate the battery box and Esc’s. Ran the motor wires in a loop do I didn’t have to shorten them and as the trucks swing back and forth, the wire connectors don’t come unplugged.
I considered every possible configuration, even considered mounting the motors behind the trucks. To make the wires fit under the trucks, you would have to remove some or all of the shrink wrap so that you could bend the wires where they exit the motors. And then worry about the spinning motor shell touching them. Unless you planned to run them through the board.
I run them through the front. That way you can have the mount closer to the deck (further away from the ground) and no risers if you wanted. As long as their is slack, you can turn the trucks and notice how much the motor wires actually move.
I was thinking of mounting the bolt holes so you can position or angle towards the bottom back right but then you worry about the motor wires hitting or getting eaten by the motors.
@Jeff - Great to hear. Mine on HexTKP Work great. I just added a few heatshrink around the actual adapter to prevent rotation.
review time(tdrl at the end)
pulling the mount out of the box right away it felt nice and looked great with no imperfections in the finish
the motor screws where the dark grey style that TB has used in the past, they can rust but have great strength against striping. the large screw for the clamp is plated chrome and well pretty it can strip when screwing it in. and then, there’s the screws that join the mount and the clamp they dont feel strong what so ever, they can take the torque that is needed for holding the two parts together and with lock-tight should be fine.
next the mounting
holy fuck the amount of torquing it takes to get the clamp on is ridiculous and with the fact that the screw for it is plated yeah I striped something a little. I don’t know if I should have screwed it in a little then took it out but just going as far as you can right off the bat gets you some striping.
next the little screws for holding the motor plate on, they are easy to put on and with lock-tight will hold up fine, they dont need a lot to hold on just a 1/2 turn past touching really.
ok lets get to the last part shall we, putting the motor on.
it was easy enough just line up the holes(only works if you have 63mm mounts no 50mm support. fucking good 55mm is shit) and get the screws half way in then pop your belt and wheel on. last you pull the motor back to get the right tension and tighten the motor screws up.
so in the end its a great improvement over past designs by TB and I can now say that this is the mount for anyone with or without a brain, i simply love it in both design and function.
TLDR the big screw is meh an all steel one would be better the little screws look weak but can do the job the motor screws are great adjusting tension is shit simple it looks sexy and sleek 7/10 needs refinement but the current offering is amazing and a must buy for anyone building a board.
fuck, i wanted to be first.
triple post fuckers
my motor is working again.
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