For those who seen my thread on the Evolve Bamboo GTX All Terrain and how I canceled my order to build my own mountainboard - this is the thread were I will document my progress.
So basically the Idea is a Trampa Board with the following setup:
1 x VERTIGO Mountainboard Deck with CNC lite 12mm HOLLOW Axle Trucks
: 35º HOLYPRO Deck Shape
: 16ply 35º HOLY PRO MTB - Stiff
: WHITE Powdercoated with Blue logo VERTIGO Baseplate
- GREEN DAMPA’s - 75a Firm Steering
- Powder Coated BLUE Springs
: Please fit 5 Spoke SUPERSTAR Hubs
: White Gloss Blue Logo Rim
: BLUE Anodised Spokes
: 8 Inch BLUE Primo ALPHA Tyres
: BLUE ATB Bearings - 12mm Axles
: RATCHET Style Bindings please
- White Strap with Blue Foam Footstraps
- WHITE with BLUE logo L-Brackets
- BLUE Powder Coated Ratchet Buckles
: Heel Straps with BLUE Ratchets
From the Motor side I decided to go for 2x 6374 150KV from BioBoards.
I will use a FOCBOX Unity (once shipped) to drive those puppies.
My Battery Setup is a 12S4P (for now).
I designed the battery holders myself and printed them out on my 3D Printer - this gives stability and makes it a overall nice package.
Range is not my main focus - I want to see which range I can get on a 12S4P and later on if needed I will upgrade the parallel pair if the range is incredibly bad.
I use a 12S (80A-100A) BMS on this battery pack.
To round things of I decided to get a E-Toxx mini direct drive with helical gear setup.
Here are some photos for the start - will update them once there are news - and once again thanks for convincing me to cancel my Evolve Order and go DIY. I already have some experience from my other ESK8 Longboard Projects so this should be fun.
do you have some pictures from the battery inside?
I´m interested how you connected the packs with each other.
Are those taps on the cells the stock taps you can order them with, or you welded them on by your own?
I order them with the Tags from nkon.nl
every row of my holder has 8 batteries and there is a total of 6 rows (8x6 = 48 cells = 12s4p).
I connected 4 of them in parallel and then connected to the next pair of 4.
So it means each row has 2 parallel pairs.
For connecting the parallel pairs I used a thicker wire because the tag only would not have a desirable amp rating by itself.
So I just soldered the parallel pairs together with the tags. If you have a soldering iron that can get hot enough and you sand the tags a bit then it will hold up quite well.
Just don’t want to invest in a spotwelder that I only use once every 2 years.
Have a good day
Connected the BMS and tested the app… looks good so far. Now waiting for the motors, direct drive and focbox to be shipped.
That BMS is almost as big as the battery
Nonsense. I was told it was all about skill
Yes - it’s also skilled
I kinda like the approach with the bluetooth module and the app - it’s really a good app as I use the same type on my longboard for over a year and it’s flawless.
I would kill for a charge only BMS with bluetooth that is also small.
The vesc takes care of the current and total voltage and if a p group has a problem I could get a notification on my phone.
Unfortunately the only one I know that fits these parameters is this one but I don’t know how reliable it is.
Can’t trust this tiny little bugger
Do you not think that 4p will be underpowerd?
Ah ok… makes more sense now
I will find out - as I said I don’t care much for range. In the worst case I will add another 2P or 3P afterwards.
I might wire my BMS to charge only as well. Will have to see how much amps it will use and then decide.
Oh man… what a setback… seems my Focbox Unity will be the last part to arrive
I have that one, but use only as external charge and to monitor the cell voltage.
What if you wire up balance wires out of the enclosure and use a lipo alarm instead?
You can still use this one for charge and monitoring and while driving you will get a notification if one cell goes bad.
That is exactly what I (think I) wrote in my post
Finished my ghetto anti spark switch pcb that should be suitable for higher amps.
Is a Anti Spark Switch recommended on a mountainboard or should I just go for a wired Loop Key ?
I also would like to experiment with 63V Capacitors in parallel in a similar fashion to this PCB
(the pcb shown is a rectifier filter - however just to show that the plan is to have loads of caps on one pcb in parallel)
50x pcs low esr 63V Caps have to help voltage sag… just not sure if its worth my time.
Of course I would fuse this separate PCB in case any of those caps decides to short out.