Haha yeah it’s a bit daunting. Although I doubled up on the nickel strips for the parralel connections, and did 4 wires on each series connection to make sure that in theory I should never have to open the front 3 sections.
So the main compartment (rear section) is only 9 bolts, and I have the bluetooth module in there so can configure everything from my phone wirelessly 
Also you might notice that I threw the flywheels on there instead of the MBS wheels. I had a guy lined up with a mini lathe that could shave down my black wheels but then he got scared off because he said his lathe didn’t have a ton of power. Apparently he uses dry ice to keep the wheels cold but his lathe heats them up too fast when taking off thane (thus not leaving a perfect surface). So until I find a solution there I think I’m just going to keep the flywheels on here…
Also @eboosted… did you end up leaving the springs in the inner setting or move them back to the outer setting? Damapas still in the back? Spring tension?
I used a lathe for my wheels, the surface finish wasn’t perfect, but the wheel became pretty grabby.
I have my front springs on the inner setting and the rears on the outter, perfect combination for wobble free riding and coin turning
Interesting. I would’ve thought that the fronts in the center would be too loose at high speed. But I guess having the rears more firm at high speed makes more sense. Where are the springs dialed down to on both f and r?
Man that is NICE! How heavy is it?
Haven’t weighed it yet but it’s gotta be 25 pounds 
The spring retainer bolts are flushed to the deck, I’ve found this to be the perfect combination. No dampas
This is how it should be. Flush with the deck.
Anyone know what my theoretical range should be on this setup. I’m 185lbs 12s4p w/ dual 6374…
50~ km depending on environment and riding style
Test it man, noone will give you a good estimate but yourself
So just some fidings from riding last night.
I have ridden this with the springs in the outer position since I got it. First without dampas at all. At 185pounds with the 15ply deck I felt like it felt a little stiffer than what I’m typically used to (which is a boosted board) so I guess that makes sense. If you want to go over 22ish safely you really don’t want a super flex board so I was ok with that. I could do 30mph pretty comfortably with both spring in the outer settings and no dampas. 34mph was attainable got a bit uncomfortable.
Then I added dampas to the back. I still can’t tell if this just absorbs vibrations better or also stiffens everything up back there (given spring preload stays the same) @trampa can prob chime in here on this one. This made everything really stable. 30mph felt rock solid and I’m sure 34 would have too (didn’t hit that speed because I limited motor watt to 1300 to avoid speed boost kick up top which almost has killed me :p). However it didn’t carve worth a damn which I missed how I just could flow and carve so smoothly with my boosted board.
Next I tried moving the front springs to the innermost settings. Holy crap what a diffence. I was able to carve even better than my other board. I could still hit 30mph but it was pretty sketchy even with the spring preload all the way tightened down. So here are my thoughts …
I feel more than ever now is that you simply can’t have the best of both worlds. If you want to bomb it at 30+mph you just will have to have a stiffer board, and it won’t be as fun to ride at low speeds cruising and carving. I still am really wanting to find that sweet spot and I feel like it might be dampas in the front and back with front inner pos and back outer pos. If what I’m thinking is correct and the dampas add a bit of stiffness this will hopefully be a good middle ground.
I’ll report back and see what happens.
Also I got the new hangar/mounts from @kaly and they haven’t budged. Thanks so much dude I’ll get you the others boxed up and shipped back to ya 
thanks for all your awesome support!
Try inner/inner, no dampas. Then try inner/outer no dampas, inner inner with dampas, etc. You will love the inner/inner for carving. Turns on a dime! I can still hit 35 km/h and that is enough for most paths and streets.
Frank
Outer front no dampa was JUSTTTT not enough turning, then inner front no dampa was JUSTTTT too much turning (even with spring cranked all the way down). My hopes are that inner with dampa up front it will make it just a bit firmer so I’ll be in that sweet spot I need. I guess I just still don’t have confirmation yet that dampas actually add stiffness (I know they soak up vibration).
Also while I have you here, I’m getting a good bit of rattling around from the front truck that isn’t there on the 4 or so other boards I’ve ridden. When I put my foot down on the front of the board where It turns upward it dampens those rattles and the noise goes away. Is there anything I can do to make it sound more solid when riding over cracks etc? I’m hoping it isn’t just an innate characteristic of the board design (because you can’t actually put your foot over the truck). I know it probably doesn’t impact performance but I hate riding such a nice expensive board and it sounding like it is falling apart lol…
Are your nuts locked down? I don’t experience any rattling on my boards. Dampas ad a lot of stiffness in your suspension! I think you want to try the yellow ones first.
Frank
Turns out dampas in front was the sweet spot didn’t even have to drill them.
New weird issue is that my batteries only charge to 49.3v instead of 50.4. Using the 12S 4A charger from china. What gives? Is this normal?
Could the BMS be limiting to 4.1V per cell? IMO you should only charge to 4.1 vs 4.2, you get a lot more cycles and that range isn’t really usable capacity anyway
Any chance this BMS has a pot where you can adjust the voltage? Maybe I bumped it because I remember it charging to full capacity before…
