I’ve been messing around with the dampas and inner vs outer hole locations. Right now with the yellow dampas I’m finding if I can carve really well at low speed it feels sketchy above 30mph.
When it feels solid at high speed I can’t carve for crap at low speeds. For example right now i have dampas in front in inner pos and the rears are on the outside location with no dampas. Right now I can just barely turn around on a 2 lane road.
Can you run really stuff dampas on the inner setting without much preload and get the best of both worlds. Or is it pretty much one or the other.
I’d try a asymmetrical set up like is a downhill board, changing steering angle isn’t practical so dampas and spring positions it is. Inner front, outer rear…
Maybe different dampas too
Some of the guys have modified their dampas to get them how they want by drilling a hole through the middle.
Just need to try stuff to see what works.
How much pre-load are you running? No dampas at the back? I’d try no dampas in the front…
Yes and no,I think MTB’s are not designed for speed as much as they tend to have a flexy deck and steering geometry geared towards agility. Stick a 70kg jockey on a 17 ply trampa with white or blue dampas and it will be pretty stable, ain’t going to turn too well unless you man handle it…
MBS spring trucks use the egg type shape, Trampa have dampas kind of look like a small-large-small sphere stacked on top of each other…
Maybe i should shut my mouth because i don’t have enough experience on the tramps trucks but i quickly adjusted the baord of a friend after the first 100 meter because it felt wrong. And that improved it a lot.
So the theory is simply to have a looser front than the back. Sounds wrong but that’s the way it is.
Maybe you should start with the front and back adjusted to the same settings. And then start to make the front looser and see how it feels.
Maybe both trucks with springs at the inner position and yellow dampas only at the back would be good. But i guess that is already too tight. Think some softer dampas are needed for the carvers.
I’m all with you @Ackmaniac
As I said in my first post: set it up like a downhill deck, turny in front stable in back… I don’t like to be too direct though. Some times things are described wrong, so I ask questions first?
I’m worried how much pre-load @pshaw is running. Essentially the springs can be pre-loaded but not so much the dampas. Rather than loading the dampas you should use the next duro dampa up, some members have then modified the compression curve by drilling them. Duffman has some cylinder shaped units he is using that he DIY’ed… just think of it like a coil over shock, adjust from there.
On the carver you should always pre load the springs when using the inner position. Adjusters flush with the deck is perfect. I ride inner inner and can go up to 38Km/h with ease, no dampas.
Outer rear, inner front is ideal for speeds up to 44km/h.
The pre-tension is needed when you don’t use dampas in the inner position. On hard turn, the outer spring would have little contact to the spring retainer if you don’t tension them down a bit.
