Unity Antispark(?) Failure

My board is an Enertion Raptor 2.x that I pieced together from clearance parts, including a FOCBOX Unity. It’s pretty much all brand new with under 10km on it.

I was out for a ride today and stopped to pick up the board after deciding against going over a rough patch of pavement.

When I set it back down it wouldn’t move, so I checked the BMS gauge and it said 0%. This is kind of unexpected because I had gone less than 1km on a 90% charge, and yesterday I took it on a 5+km trip and used maybe 10-20% of a charge. I carried it home and put it on the charger, which finished charging it in only a few minutes (making the 0% reading even more implausible).

The power button/antispark switch didn’t seem to do anything (i.e. holding it for 5 seconds didn’t turn off the little ring light around the button or the battery gauge backlight like it normally would). When I got home it was completely off, however.

Now the power button does nothing, and the spare power button I have also does nothing, whether the unity is connected to a bench supply, a known good battery, or the raptor battery.

I’m able to power it up via the SWD connector, and at that point I can connect the VESC tool via USB-C. I’ve tried re-flashing the boot loader and re-uploading the firmware, but neither helps. I’ve also tried changing the “Off after 30 minutes” to “toggle button only”.

I’m beginning to think this might be a hardware problem. Has anyone else had this happen?

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It’s a bad BMS. Wire around it for discharge only. Antispark, get rid of it and do a loop Ley. It’ll be tricky but not impossible

This board is already set up with a charge-only BMS and a 70A fuse, and even so, bypassing those doesn’t help. The anti-spark switch is built in to the ESC.

I’m just wondering if there’s a part on these that commonly fails so that I could either replace it or swap it from the other ESC (which likely was damaged as a result of its BMS, which cut out during regen and caused a voltage spike).

Yea the antispark, and it either is stuck on or off. On is better. Off your sol.

Hey Guys!

Jumping in this thread because I don’t know where to start.

I am an owner of a broken raptor 2, due to water damage. Someone had a look at it and believes it’s the BMS that done for. I’m so out of my element and so tired of this broken board that at one point I was so excited about, I just want to get it fixed so I can either ride it again or sell it.

I also have a unity to replace the two focboxes if needed.

The question is, is there any place I can get a replacement BMS, and if it needs to be the same as the original.

Thank you whoever is reading this.

Ps: help…

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I don’t know that I can offer much help on the BMS front. The failure in my board seems to be internal to the unity (bypassing the BMS doesn’t help).

You might reach out to @onloop and see if he has any pointers on finding a similar or compatible BMS.

You might also be able to locate a BMS suitable for a 10S4P pack (I think the term you’re looking for is “charge-only BMS”, since you want the ESC to handle things like current and voltage limits without any surprise disconnects from the BMS). The trick there is finding something that will fit in the space (it’s pretty tight) and ideally drive the display.