First off as I’ve said in so many other posts is, DONT BE AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE. When I first built my board I wanted to be as cheap as humanly possible and along with all my other mistakes, that was by far the biggest and most costly, I only ended up spending more money in the long run. Second I dont have a geared setup but that motor is TINY for a single drive get something bigger. If you have access to a 3D printer making a GT2B Bad Wolf Remote is a great idea and prob the cheapest. Also another huge mistake I made was getting the cheapest shittiest board I could find on eBay, like yourself lol. I highly recommend getting a nice board as it looks 1000x better as well as feeling far better. 2x 5Ah 3S LiPos in series for 6S will get you around 5 miles of range riding normally which is decent but youll get sick of it VERY fast. Id recommend getting 4 of those similar to what I have now and you’ll get 10-14 miles of range. Also use XT60 connectors not the HXT ones and you can save that $10 by just building your own series adapter, pretty easy. Also I HIGHLY recommend you get a cheap 6S BMS to charge your board instead of a iMax B6 because your going to hate taking apart your board to charge it. Also I recommend the VESC a ton, use to have the exact same X-Car ESC and the VESC is just so much better, and way more efficient. And yeah thats about it, I think you should save up some more money and put like $400-$500 into your board and make a nice one that your proud of and will actually use.
EDIT: also just read some other peoples build logs as you can learn a lot from them.
Going as cheap as this is not worth at all. It’s like building the most unreliable computer, sometimes it will freeze, the keys from the keyboard won’t return, it won’t load some programs and I’ll take 6 minutes to boot on Windows 3.1, that’s money to the drain.
Those wheels are hard as rocks
Those bearings will sound like a box of tictacs
The trucks are precise as a VW at the Nordschleife
That motor will stall in small hills and would take forever to gain speed, it will overheat
To start your first build the 120A esc is good enough, Me and my friend have the FVT 120A running for like 6 months and still running fine never had problems with it. I live in a city with max incline 10% so not that much and it has no problems going uphill.
I’m also running a 50mm motor only it’s a bit longer, but there will will be not that much difference.
For an easy build I should just go for the mini remote and don’t mess with 3D printed hacks for the GT2B, I don’t say it’s not good but it’s more work while the mini remote works like it should and it’s already a small controller.
For the trucks I should use paris or caliber trucks.
If you don’t have acces to a machines you can buy trucks on ebay which will fit that motormount.
Choose 18mm diameter and 50mm distance.
I got the motormount to and if you replace the bolts with inbus bolts the mount will never come loose and I know people say it’s crap but, yeah everything is crap if you don’t connect things properly.
That’s just my opinion about making a affortable esk8 which just works fine.
for the motor I would reccomend the larger 6374 motors. they arnt too expensive compaired to the smaller 55 ones, but you will definitely need the extra torque they provide at 6S. I run a single 74 on 12S with a very low gear ratio and I still have decent torque
^^ is available now and not a huge price hike on the overall cost of the board and is much easier to configure and get the most out of. I had one of those car ESCs as a stop-gap as well but after the VESC came in and I’ve been using it for over a year (only failure I had on one was due to some bad probing by me, not to say they can’t fail but if you configure them properly and connect everything well they can be very stable, never had it do something I didn’t tell it to do, unlike my dog). If you go with the other ESC plan to buy a programming card too or spend a ridiculous amount of time listening to beeps and staring at various beep codes to configure things using a controller.
The ESC you linked is only good to 6S what happens if you decide to upgrade to higher voltage so you can increase the efficiency of the electrical system and bump your top speed up a bit? Then you have to upgrade the batteries and the ESC at the same time? Think better to get the VESC with the overhead to run at 6S, 8S, 10S, 12S (I ended up at 10S 5Ah so far, I want more Ah but 10S is enough at 149kv for me in terms of top end)
Also the VESC6 is rolling out here shortly, it will be a bigger price hike but also has a couple of years worth of extra work into it compared with the 4.12 version.
I’ll echo what had been said about not pushing for super low budget.
Does anyone else have experience with that style of motor mount? Everything I’ve seen about the kind that use set screws around a circular truck (like the Paris ones) don’t go well. I think the only way to really secure motor mounts to Paris style trucks is to weld them…caliber style is much easier to mount to