Are the solder pads on your modified BOM smaller than Vedder’s original design? I think it might be nicer if it was a tad larger for the people using 10-8 AWG wire.
No, they’re actually larger, 8x7mm vs 6x5mm. This is one rev 1.1, I too noticed the size is a tad small.
Super cool you are sharing this. What are the square pinhole sections on the bottom/negative under FETs for?
So this is really a Vedder/Fechter/Emepror Anti-spark right? Talk about it takes a village…
It’s updated now.
Thank you very much for sharing this !!
What are those standoffs for the fuse called? Any idea what their amp limit is?
Common people… please dont be so lazy…
I took my 20 seconds to get this answer.
–> Go to the mouser link
–> 58V / 70A (70 because the number on the fuse says it)
Your approach by asking cost you much more than 20 seconds.
But no problem, i am not mad Just try to motivate the lazy folk
I’m not talking about the fuse lol…
I’m taking about the standoffs that it screws into…
I noticed a few problems with your layout, you may need to rework your schematic. Nothing is routed to your 12v pin and you have SW shorted to positive. Looks like R3 is also grounded with a via.
I had started work on a similar switch a few months ago, I should dust off the file and finish it up. Was going for something a little more compact in width and thickness. Still need to incorporate some fuse terminals and through holes for a jst-ph connector. Needs some vias to finish stitching some of the main power traces too.
My fault… i am sorry
Will you be using a similar style fuse and fuse holder design?
THEY ARE120 AMP STANDOFFS. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wurth-Electronics/7460408/?qs=lykWx4dhCCG7IAhyxQ5B4w%3D%3D
Thanks for having looked at the new v1.1 version.
I could cancel my OSHPark order just in time
Yeah, I really like the little fuse brand.
So changing the footprints to “handsolderable” the footprint references got all messed up, they’re fixed now. Does that clear up the things you saw, because looking at the schematic, those issues you mentioned weren’t apparent. Also I did make one other change, the through holes for posts for the fuse were ever so slightly too small and while it still works you pretty much need to use a hammer to get them in. This has been fixed (I hope) by making the posts 0.1mm larger. I wish I knew where my calipers are.
For anyone else reading, if you’ve ordered PCB’s for this design and still can change the gerber files go ahead, if not everything will still work, the posts are just a pain in the butt to get in.
Very good stuff guys! @chaka are you planning on selling/using these at Ollin?
Just a small comment, I dont know if it allready was said…
BUT… it is normaly bad practice to place the switch so if it fails everything is ON
Normally you would make it pull-down to off by default, and then the switch pulls in up, and turns it ON
Maybe not in this application, I’m not sure what’s worse while your riding, stopping suddenly or not being able to stop?!?
You got a point !
better to have a on fet than off for ud sorry
No really, not sure which is worse
I’d personally rather have the switch fail to on, having a switch fail to off going 20+ mph is not something I want to experience. However your point of either option being bad, I agree with, faulting on isnt a great solution. Eventually im moving to having the cutoff built into a BMS with a bit more control/notification in the case of a failure. Also if the fuse goes, everything is powered down, at least w/ rev 1.1.