Did you guys get a 1oz or 2oz for this pcb. OSH Park normal is 1oz but have option for 2oz. Is 2oz Needed? Thanks
If you order my revision you will be fine with 1oz but you will want 2oz for the original design.
ah ok Thanks Chaka
Is the revision you mentioned the one currently for sale on your site or a new one?
The one on my site is that same as the one I am sharing on OshPark. I wire them without a fuse since most people want more than 50 amps. You can solder a fuse in place if you like but it is probably best use a higher rating than 50 amps and use something inline. I recommend something around 100 amps but this can vary depending on your system gearing ect…
I have a 10S4P 30Q pack. I am planning to use a 80A fuse on the positive battery pack lead since the pack is good for 80A continuous. Would another fuse on the antispark be redundant?
This is the fuse I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ZJ0S2M/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
if you would be putting a fuse on the pack and then the switch, you’d have a redundant fuse.
Replying to the copper question a couple posts back, with my board i prefer 2oz copper. I’ve used a company called smart prototyping for boards (cheaper than oshpark) and they’ll do 2 oz. 1 oz should be fine but i’d like to be able to either handle as much current as possible or lower the operating temperature of the board.
Is GitHub uptodate? Is the Github version failsafe or are there any problems left?
“One other change is an optional 12V supply tap that can be used for an LED button if desired, the 12V (5V) must be supplied externally.” When reading this i get the feeling that you have to supply the PCB with your battery and when i want to use the LED of the switch i need to attach additionaly 12V? That does not make sense for me but it is what i expect with the given sentence…
Why does it only have 3 holes instead of 5? (right side for the switch)? Does this make trouble when ordering from a pcb factory?
Would be nice if you could enlighten me 
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Hey DeathCookies instead of using a separate 12V source you could just use a couple high value resistors to act as if it was 12V. My MOSFET switch design has this integrated on the PCB but you can easily add this to Vedders design.
Hey, ill do a double check over the files in a few, and update the repo if need be. the reason you need a seperate 5 or 12V source for the button LED is that I didnt want to overload the zener diode and there’s no other DC-DC regulation on the board, I could have used a voltage divider but that wastes a lot of energy to heat. The image with only three holes on the five pads is just a graphics glitch, I have had no problems with the batch im getting ready to sell.
The only problem is that it wastes a lot of energy to heat when you use just a voltage divider, especially when your dealing with 40+V down to 5V or 12V
I wasn’t talking about using a voltage divider, just using a high value resistor to limit the current though the LED. And it definetly doesn’t waist that much power to heat lol, your only powering an LED. It’s what I do in my switch and it works fine.
if you have an LED with a forward voltage of say 2V @ 20mA and a fully charged 42V battery your wasting (42V-2V) * 20mA = 0.8W of power, which isnt a huge amount compared to motor draw, but when you design your electronics to idle in the lower milliwatts or lower, its a large amount.
True but the LED is only on when the board is on and constantly drawing around 15A so personally I don’t think it really matters. Also theres no reason to run 20mA through it you could just run 10 or less for pretty much the exact same brightness.
Most probably won’t like this option, but I just use a 12V UBEC. Overkill for just a lighted switch, but it also allows me to power my headlights, USB charge port, and Arduino (if desired)
Yep, a 12 switching regulator would do the job, for less money. Something like SI-8010GL.
Yes thats true but like I said you don’t need to run 20mA through it. If you just ran 12 then you would only be using 1.2W which is still very minimal and I think completely irrelevant.
@emepror Is Github uptodate? Is everything working? How much can this switch handle? Are you going to change the LED 12V supply?
Thanks in advance
Hey, sorry for the delay, I lost my laptop and didn’t have the ability to work on my designs during that time. I have a 70A Fuse on mine, and the board should handle peaks up to that no problem. I have no plans to change how the LED supply works, as I can pull 5V off the VESC and pass it to the switch in my eboard, a similar approach can be done on other eboards.
Real question: Why did you add the additional two pins for the LED power supply?