URBAN BURRO | Trampa Carver 14ply | Mini Vertigo trucks | 10s4p VTC5 with BMS | Dual sensored 6355 APS 130kv | Esk8 Controller 1.1 | Idea Motor Mounts 4.0 | Trampa Underboard Tray | 7” pneumatics and 125mm Gummies on Superstar hubs

Dude - legend. Great detail and pics to show what you have done. You have spent a lot of time on this - I’m envious. When I started my build, I wanted everything to be perfect but at the end, I couldn’t give a shit, so it doesn’t look as good. Your builds are very inspiring.

1 Like

Thanks bro!

Also not everything is perfect on this build but I tried to make it look like :laughing:

My first esk8 was looking very bad and I had a lot of troubles but riding was fun and I got addicted. Then I ordered parts already for a better version but I fell in love with the urban/street carver when I saw threads/pics of @Kaly and @whitepony. I didn’t know how much work it will be with this flexible deck and how much it costs in the end.

Did some calculations, the total costs of this build are about 1700€ (1970$) damn that’s a lot :face_with_raised_eyebrow:

Now you know what’s inside as well :wink:

Yeah man, If I would have know just how much it would cost, before I got started, then I’m not sure if I would have chosen DIY. Sure, it is satisfying to build something, and it is nice to know that you can customise things, but, heck, it takes a lot of time, and money to do this. With brands, like LaCroix, now emerging, it brings another option to the esk8 field. I wonder how long it will be before brands like MBS start to bring out their own dedicated electric mountainboard?

i thought i was putting some serious time in my build but geeze…thats a lotta work you put in there. cudos!

the pay off (40km range) is just awesome! i’ll aim for range on the next build - makes group rides more fun when you dont have to worry about running out of juice. winter is coming and there goes my money…lol :grin:

1 Like

Curious to see that other people had exactly the same thoughts and problems like I with this tray. Like the end covers. I also planed first to mount them on the deck but than just understood it’s more easy to glue them on the tray. For my next build I bought some copper bars like you did, but didn’t used in the end…guess I need to rethink that point too.

Honestly your built looks too much similar to mine :sweat_smile: How you feel with the Esk8.de vescs? I didn’t had so much luck with them. First they arrived with damaged plastic cover. Than one stated to throw some abs over current faults and after two 3 weeks one total blew with a drv error. They also got quite quick hot without extra hole in the enclosure. In dual it wasn’t an issue but after I blow one and could only drive single, I got temp cut out after 5min… Still didn’t found the cause of it, my vesc settings have been on point…maybe 11s 190kV wasn’t that optimal for them. Idk

1 Like

Hey rich

Why did you not only make the cuts in the sides of the Trampa enclosure?

I did this , and it’s working perfectly fine IMG_20170828_183537

3 Likes

Looks like we should write a new official trampa under board tray thread with all our experiences so far :sweat_smile: if you start like I did with the thread from @trampa it’s gonna be way much more work than it need to be. I was bloody beginner and just wanted to follow the instruction one by one…didn’t work out as i couldn’t find some parts easily in Russia. Especially when it comes to the battery lay out I think it‘s good to see some alternatives. Still don’t know where to get this tufnol from…it also didn’t work out for me to mount the battery to the deck and just use the tray as cover. I was waiting 2,5month for the end covers as they where on stock but after I ordered they said they need first be produced…ended up getting a 3D printer and designed my own.

2 Likes

I like DIY because you can build it exactly how you like (if you don’t calculate :wink:), you can fix problems by yourself or find answers in this great forum. You can tweak settings, change motors or whatever you want to change later. This is not possible with commercial boards (least of all with no knowledge).

I think like many other people I started DIY because of saving money. In 2015 I’ve tried an evolve (1st generation) but 1200€ was way too much. I met a distributor of evolve who told me he probably could organize me one for 600€. He wrote an e-mail to the chief of evolve germany and the answer was: " I can buy it for 1200€ and get 2 belts for free!!! :rofl: Time to do some research and DIY. Unfortunately I did no proper research (e.g. how to build an esk8 for 300$ on YT) and had to buy everything twice to finish my first esk8. After finishing and riding it for months I knew I have to build a proper one. Finally here it is.

Haha thanks! It took so much time because my main tools are my brain and hands. My hands want to machine and work but my brain says: “no only one try, do it proper”. I’ve spent 100-1000 times more in thinking and planning compared to building.

I like all the 3D printed parts on your build, that’s something I can’t do.

For parallel connections copper bar sucks, flat wire is much better because it’s flexible. When you pre-tinn the cells plus copper bar it’s impossible to get the rigid bar flat on the cells without gap (or without heavy mechanical stress). When I tried to desolder a bar (which is impossible) I ripped off the thin metal sheet of the minus pole on 2 cells. Don’t try this at home…

With the slices you made you can bend the tray upward to fit the shape of the deck but you restrict the flex. If you have a stiff deck or want it stiff this is the way to go. But I want to enjoy the flex of the 14ply deck. The reason why I didn’t make additional slices like you have is that I don’t use this tray as cover. Every of the 7 segments hold the battery/electronics and I wanted the segments rigid. With additional slices it would bend in the middle of the segments, not good for glued parts.

Forget this tuffnol, a middle spine is enough IMO. The tray has only 23-24mm height so there is no space for additional material beside padding/glue. And I use 3mm neoprene foam as gasket. But it’s important that nothing can move inside the tray.

2 Likes

Yesterday I’ve tried to fix my heavy interference problems of the Maytech MTSKR1712 remote. Re-matched and tried 2 other positions inside enclosure but as expected no difference at all, drop outs all the time in certain areas, traffic lights, main streets, houses, gas station … I’m done with this lethal remote, had so many dangerous moments.

Switched to my replacement Steez for MTB (Maytech MTSKR1512) and WOOOOOOOOOW no more drop outs as it should be. I am so happy to have a reliable remote again. Great experience to be able to break or accelerate when I want. Going downhill is no more a nightmare… only thing the receiver is soooooooo big.

115413h

215331h

After dismounting the enclosure I realized my gasket sucks :laughing:

165415h

Changed the gasket from 3mm neoprene foam to 1.5mm solid rubber plus 2mm neoprene because it was too much compressed, still experimenting, have to make it more dust/splashproof but first priority for now is to protect the inside. The tray is 24mm but I need 25-26mm that’s why it’s not safe to use neoprene only.

It’s ugly but the quickly applied sugru does the job against movements supporting the short cables and solder joints on the controllers.

231852h

2 Likes

It may seem ‘ugly’ but it is functional and that is what counts. I wonder if this is where sugru comes from?

3 Likes

That’s dirt, do you think the entry point was all arround or just the motors wires holes? I’ve used 3mm neoprene rubber and my electronics are as clean as the day I closed everything up, and that it ridding and doing burnouts on dirty trails lots of times

:rofl: :joy: But then why is it so expensive?

All around and especially at the end caps, filled the phase wire holes only for safety. I have a special foam tape to solve this problem next time I open the enclosure.

But i have a problem with a drivetrain or motor, there is some resistance, damn… need to investigate after work.

2 Likes

This video was a nightmare to edit because of too much footage, didn’t finish just stopped it. Very nice fresh tarmac :sunglasses:

One motor mount moved and the angle changed so I had to mount it straight again. This is my DIY “helping hand” to get the correct position (30mm distance). Changed the angle with a small stripe of duct tape again.

042028h

I thought it’s a good idea to have some light on the board and made a mount. Bent a plastic angle with heat gun and glued 1mm rubber before mounting to the baseplate

212721h

214342h

223403h

The light is secured with 3m dual lock which is heavy duty but on my first night ride it popped off several times because of cracks in tarmac. This vibrations must be ultra heavy because I can’t reproduce this behaviour at home shaking and beating it.

Also I realized that when the light is that close to the ground it’s more for other people seeing me. When I hold the same light in my hand I see much more.

8 Likes

That’s heaven to ride, nice carving and hugging the wall Tokyo Drift style

This light has a internal battery?

1 Like

It’s a COB led for bicycle with integrated lipo, ordered cheap from china

COB_Led

Already dismounted the light because it’s much better wearing them as a ring :laughing:

222814h

I am planning to add underbody lights (white at front and red at back) instead of normal lights to be visible if needed. I have bright 1W LED’s so just need 1 white and 1 red connected to 5V of vesc with on/off switch, only thing I have to figure out is which resistors I need.

2 Likes

Yesterday evening I used a “finger light” but that was a bad idea, not bright enough, had a painful crash!

It started so nice visiting a skate park with small pools/ wavy concrete paths for the first time. I had so much fun and also made many scratches on the Trampa tray but no problem at all.

When it got dark the scooter and skateboard kidz left the park so I thought it would be funny to make some last higher speed rounds, what a stupid idea. What I totally forgot was the rail for sliding in the beginning of the concrete place. I was going full throttle for 1-2 seconds and then I hit the rail and the board sent me flying. There was nothing I could do, was landing with elbow, shoulder and back with overturning.

Destroyed the front truck and have graze on the back and graze and a nice wound on my arm near the elbow. My arm and shoulder hurt but I think (hope) it’s not broken. What a nightmare.

203720h 203822 212430h 163809h

5 Likes

Too familiar with the “oh shit” moment

Hope you recover well and make some videos there :grinning:

2 Likes

Sad to hear. Get well soon man!

1 Like

Hope you are okay dude. I think of you as a pioneer with these type of boards. You think outside of the box and you are not afraid to just go and try shit out. Best part is that you keep the rest of us (like me) informed along your journey. Hope you mend well so that you can continue with your updates.

1 Like

Ouch. That must have hurt. I hope it heals quickly.

1 Like