so the 97mm diameter would be 48.5mm from the truck. caliber trucks are 58mm from the hanger to the baseplate (don’t quote me on that, but I’m 90% sure its between 55 and 60mm) so without risers it’ll put you at roughly 46mm of ground clearance before you add mounting hardware or take into account deck flex.
could be better, but still isn’t a lowrider by any means!
Cut that 97mm diameter down to a radius and the figures will make more sense…Being that wheel is centered on an axle.(half of it sits above the axle) It is actually going to be 23mm of ground clearance
I started to say that if you have the wheelbase to suit it, and you can find them, i’d go with 4 3S 10Ah packs because that would give you more ground clearance… but i don’t think it would considering that the prismatic cells in these packs are typically all the same width or are very close at least.
I wish I could get 40 miles out of a single charge. That would allow me to commute without firing up a noisy charger or looking for a place to plug in at work. Maybe I should do some more research and find a better way to stack cells.
Well I got the deck battery’s and series pug and wheels today and will receive the ESC’s and bec tomorrow. Omg the battery’s are heavy ! I’m going to have to find some kind of boxes for mounting these battery’s.
I was reading about a set up where this guy split 4s 10000mah battery’s packs in half to be 2s thin.he was only going for 8s so the two packs would set side by side . thin and long . I could do that with these 6s packs making the 30 mm thin
Oh and by the way I would not recommend putting lipo cells apart that are glued together unless you know what you are doing. It take skill and apeano wire
Well I set up a push on push off anti spark button switch and arming plug today. I used a small pelican case to in close the esc’s bec and receiver. Every thing fit in nice and snug. I found some really cool Velcro straps to mount the battery’s with. Three straps per battery plus Velcro on the batteries to stick them to the board. I’m going to screw the Velcro straps to the board so nothing can come loose.the esc’s came with 4mm bullet motor connectors so I’m replacing them with 5.5mm to match up with what’s on the motors.
The esc’s I’m using are for rc aircraft with no reverse and the transmitter I’m using is for a rc car with the stick set in the center witch for these aircraft esc’s is half throttle at that ms. I could put a rubber band on the throttle holding it all the way forward till i pull on it but I’m wondering if there is some other way to fix this issue. Any one ?
you should be able to program the ESC’s and/or calibrate the transmitter.
I know that I had this issue with my first ESC which was an aircraft version (much better off with a car version (or VESC)) im pretty sure there was some setting somewhere that allowed calibration.
I have yet to have seen a car ESC that can be used with a 12s lipo battery that’s 50 volts. Yes when programing the ESC first hold throttle at full then plug in battery into ESC hear two beeps and then you have to put the throttle all the way down as they call it witch for this transmitter is full reverse. So wait your telling me I could leave it at half and the ESC would program that as off or brake??