your question is in the right spot. this is a VESC/nunchuck thread.
I use it frequently and it activates only after you came to a standstill. The VESC is not breaking unless you’re doing it yourself. It’s just going into neutral position.
It’s a useful feature for example when you want to step back a little bit when crossing a street and you are waiting for traffic to disappear. Or irritating other people.
Thx @elkick that’s exactly what I was wondering!
@joren check out the information above with regards to the nunchuck dongle.
I suggest that you do something similar with your wiiceiver soldering the receiver direct to the PCB for optimal reliability.
Is anyone able to show how to wire the wii receiver to a duel VESC setup?
Check this out
Not sure how useful this is, but I found this thing which I believe can connect into the receiver and expose the pinouts so that you don’t have to dismantle the receiver: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9281
You still have the solder the connections, but it makes it more modular and if you ever need to replace the transmitter/receiver you can just plug it in instead of unsoldering and resoldering.
Even better, couldnt the VESC be redesigned to just take the receiver as a slide on connection? Do away with all the need for wiring, solder connections etc…
That thought has crossed my mind as well. Having a built in connector like the wiiceiver would be a good idea for those wanting to retain the integrity of their wireless nunchuck receivers. Couldn’t someone just modify his pcb design since it’s all open source? I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s been done already.
this is a bad idea guys. it sounds nice, but the socket will introduce a lot of dropouts and general problems.
myself, and almost all of my friends have slammed because of a slide on wiiceiver socket.
solder on and save lives.
I have heard about the intermittent issues of the wiiceiver. So are those issues actually due to the wii socket itself losing connection temporarily or is it due to something in the wiiceiver pcb ?
Also does anyone have a guide to dismantle the receiver? Do you just break the plastic ?
dismantling the dongle is easy… they literally just pull apart… no tools required.
Ah I see. I tried pulling it apart last night but I couldn’t do it. Maybe I need to pull harder.
there is a ring over the top of the plug that just slides off and the the 2 halves split apart. just apply brute force…
Yep. You just need to slip the ring off, then slide your nail into the crack and then lever them apart. Nothing more. DON’T go in deep with a knife as the contents inside are all a bit weak and flimsy and could easily be damaged.
Gently does it! Good luck!
I ended up prying it apart by using a string in the crack and then wrapping it around my hand and pulling it apart.
I’ve soldered the Nyko PCB to the VESC but I am still getting drop outs, even with lots of hot glue to keep things in place. What other influences would cause the nunchuck to loose connection for short moments? I also have a GT2B receiver hooked up which could potentially be interfering.
Thats strange. In all of my builds i have always used a nyko kama. At first i used the slide on plug and was getting dropouts. After soldering I very rarely get any droppouts at all. I went back to riding my original prototype. And it was dropping out every couple of minutes. I couldnt believe how bad it was. So i soldered that one on too. And behold no more droppouts. However I have never used a VESC or a GT2B so I cant coment on those.
…one day my VESC will come.
Edit: how good is your soldering. ? If you have dry joins you may still get droppouts. I am a soldering boss so I wouldnt have that problem.
Please excuse my ignorance, but what does “solder it to the VESC” mean exactly ?
Is there another way ?
Yes, use torqueboards wiiceiver. It means that you take the pcb out of the receiver and solder it directly to the vesc. Search up what solder means.
I’m pretty sure this is how it’s done let the pro’s chime in though.