usually i’d let the ESC determine batteries, but since you have VESC you have a lot of flexibility.
So depending on the size of your deck and how much room you have to work with will help determine space for batteries and their sizes needed.
I tend to like smaller thinner batteries. So instead of one big 6s battery, 2 x 3s in series is almost always thinner and lower profile (more ground clearance and less visible). And since you have VESC you have the ability to do 2-3-4 batteries in series for 6/9/12s - letting you customize the power depending on your mood. Of if you want to let a friend try it, you can simply remove one or two from series to get it down to 6s for less power/punch which might cause them to crash if unwary.
I might also suggest the venerable GT2b vs the nano. Then later you can re-enclose in badwolf / master cho / flatline enclosure for smaller size.
replace the zeros with other numbers, example 10s3p 6s4p
This is a shorthand version of 10 batteries in series with 3 of these in parallel
Batteries in series increase voltage, which in turn increases power.
Batteries in parallel increase amp/hours, which in turn increases your battery time/range of your board
How does series work?
It takes multiple smaller voltage based batteries to create one larger voltage battery. A common example of this is a Car battery which is actually 6 small lead acid batteries in series. Each of these cells are just over 2 Volts each connected in series creating one 12 volt battery.
This will read in terms of the above short hand as 6s1p
Another thing to note though that a 6s using LiIon or LiPo will actually be a higher voltage as each cell is approx 4volts each.
So a 6s battery will be about 24volts
Parallel, the best analogy I can use here in relation to cars is that each P is a tank of fuel
So a 1p battery has 1 tank of fuel, a 2p battery has 2 tanks of fuel so on
So obviously a 4p battery will go almost (because of weight increase) four times as far as 1p battery
Hope this answers it all in layman’s terms for you
Too many choices right?
Let’s narrow it down.
With dual Vesc and 190kv motors,
10s battery is gonna be the sweet spot with power and speed to spare but at the same time very smooth and controllable.
Range is usually rated by distance rather than riding time.
Example
A space cell pro3 is 7.5 ah and should give abt 15 mile range
A space cell pro4 is 10 ah and should give over 20 mile range.
I’d also suggest knowing how Amp Hours relates to range. Almost all batteries will state their mAh or Ah (milli-amp hour or amp hour) capacity. PLUS their “c” rating (20c constant to 35c burst). I would target a battery that is capable of around 100 Amps constant. To get this take your 20c (example) on a 5000mAh (also = 5Ah) and 20 x 5 = 100 amps continuous, with capacity to burst to 35c or 35 x 5 = 175 amps burst.
If you draw close to the max continuous amp discharge capacity (say the full 100amps continuously) = it will either damage the battery over time, or greatly reduce the battery life (# of recharges usually). So since my measured amp draw (using an inline watt meter) showed a peak amp discharge of 65A, i’m probably rarely above 30-40amps giving ample overhead for better pack life.
Then to figure out range you want to take your batteries Ah x voltage = Watt Hours. So the simple 5000mAh 10s (simpler math) (nominal voltage of lipo is 3.7v per cell so 37v for 10s) would equal 5Ah x 37v = 185Wh.
Watt Hours and range - you can expect about 10Wh = 1km. so the above 10s 5000mah / 185Wh pack would get (185Wh/10= 18.5km or 11.5mi). Ballpark - on the flats - and not racing. Hills, being a heavy rider, etc. will all decrease range. Pack life too will degrade and lower your range.
It’s a lot to digest - hope this helps and is understandable.
it will depend on the pack. a 6s 5000mAh = ?? Wh? (6 x 3.7v = 22.2v) So Ah x V = Wh. 5Ah x 22.2v = 111Wh.
the “P” for # in parallel doesn’t factor in. That’s part of the capacity of the pack, and the “C” rating for continuous and peak amps able to provide.
When I was running 12s it was with Torquesboard 6355’s 230kv and Torquesboard 12s Esc
With 10s I’m using Ollin Vesc’s and Alien Power Precision 6355’s 190kv
Imo, the best motors are the ones that are made specifically for E-boards
They Have Key ways cut in the shaft so they are designed for a pulley with shaft key and grub screws.
They are well made heavy duty motors that will perform and hold up well under the high torque demands of E-boarding.
R-Spec and DIYes motors are nice but a bit more $ - keyway and longer shaft makes it easier, etc.
less expensive and work well - the hobbyking SK3’s - you have to file a flat spot or keyway and some extra steps if you want the nicer wires swapped…
Also tried some aliexpress no-name motors - just watch out for the 10mm shaft (PITA). You want 8mm for easiest compatibility w/ whats available.