Hi guys, so I connected a vedder anti spark switch from torque boards to my setup, placed it between vescs and battery. Tested it to see if it worked to turn the power off and on, and the led and switch worked fine. Then connected my vescs, and the led stayed permanently on. And so did the power. Any idea what could have gone wrong? Did I short the switch itself?
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It seems you connected the antispsrk switch in reversed position
Hmmm, the leads labelled in go to the battery and the ones labeled out go to vescs?
Yes that is the correct orientation.
That’s what I did. Not sure what went wrong atm. Maybe I’m really not cut out for this. =/
Don’t give up! I’ve seen a few issues with the mosfets getting stuck in the “open position” (which is what sounds like what is happening). Was the switch on or off when you plugged in the vesc?
I had 2 of those with the same problem of getting stuck on. Once they were stuck I couldn’t get them unstuck. I had to pull the battery wire. Is there a way to unstick them?
Post a picture of your connection
It was off when I plugged it in. The sparks from previously burned me, and gave me a healthy respect for electricity. and I was hoping to avoid them. Should it have been on? It’s just that other then those test rides, and that first glorious moment where everything was put together, it’s just been failure after failure. =(
The switch is reversed, you need to plug the button side to the battery side
Erm, the button side is on the battery side. The dual connector at the other end is showing the connection to the vescs. I thought it would be too messy to see clearly if I put it all on the small space it was meant to occupy. So I placed it on top of my battery instead.
Ah crap, does this mean I have to buy a new switch?
What voltage do you get before the switch and after the switch, does it change when the switch is on or off?
I don’t have the measuring tools. I’ve been meaning to get some, but spent the budget for this month on new vescs to replace the maytech ones instead. I guess I should get some soon. They’ll probably help me complete at least this board.
My first switch, (same as what you have) worked for a while then one day it got so hot that the shrink wrap split and it was stuck on. I returned it to TB who sent me a new one. I connected the new one and it worked for about 5 min then also got stuck on. After that I started using an anti-spark connector and plugging and unplugging to turn the system on and off. Now I am using a BMS with built in E-switch and it has proven to be dependable.
You might try one of these:
Thanks for the help! I’ll look into it. I’m kinda terrifies of loop keys now tbh.
I just don’t trust my soldering skills that much.
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How did this happen?