What Do You Think About Using DC Breaker Switch?


Since a few people are looking for something else than a key loop and using fuse blocks i found this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-30-50-60-80-100A-AMP-Car-Audio-Inline-Circuit-Breaker-Fuse-Holder-DC12v-24v-/371514509555?var=&hash=item567ffd88f3:m:m4mKYPuxh73FvvC0B_pmDdA

Thoughts on this?

What amperage is recommended?

@Mathieu I think it would be determined based on the settings of your ESC\VESC and the rest of your setup. I’ve never drawn more than 30A riding, and my motor’s max is 60A. I’m not sure if there is a benefit to using the lowest possible amperage. Perhaps the size? Cost?

Size: 98mm (L) x 43mm (W) x 35mm (H)

Those things are huge.

yeah they are huge… but you can integrate them alright… and you can trim them down a fair bit too. its not an ideal solution but it is better piece of mind then a solid state switch and no parts to lose like a loop key. I use 100A. on mine it seems to work well.

I have a new switch soon which I utilized Ben’s SparkSwitch but added a few features to make it more friendly.

The problem with circuit breaker that always confuses me is that they have rated current and breaking capacity. These smaller ones are normally only thermal breaker and not magnetic / thermomagnetic breaker. Magnetic breaker can shut off quickly but that also bad for esk8 build as surges might occur if we hit an obstacle and you don’t want your board to be randomly shut off. On the other hand, the thermal breaker are more common, cheaper and can handle surges just fine as their breaking capacity is depending on current versus time. However the problem of thermal breaker is that they normally breaking at 3 - 4x their rated current. So for instance 20A rated breaker switch will break at 100A within 1 - 2 seconds.

Also within thermal breaker switch, rated current of 20A means that if it given 21A it will not break instantly. They will break after 10000 seconds (for instance).

At this moment I am testing the 20A rocker breaker switch. This one will break 100A within 1 - 2 seconds. Ideally I think some people here want about 30A - 50A so they will break at 200A within 1 - 2 seconds exactly perfect timing for VESC before blowing up above 240A (according to Vedder site). http://www.distrelec.ch/en/circuit-breaker-thermal-20-schurter-4435-0210/p/13322934

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I think you are missing the point @laurnts we are looking at using the breaker as a switch, we don’t particularly want it to trip at all. however the added safety of having it trip if there is a short is nice.

for what its worth, mine has never tripped. ever.

Seems unnecessary and bulky. Surely a small fuse is possible (as someone linked) and an antispark xt90s plug does the rest. I don’t bother with a fuse. What type of situation would it help? If the motor shorted it’s already ruined and in my experience without a fuse it it didn’t take the escs out as well and I kept adding amps

purely cosmetic for me.

that, and I wanted to make it idiot proof.

Hi @lowGuido , what is the voltage of ur dc breaker on ur board? all the breaker i found on ebay is rated from 12v to 24v? ur system is 12s right? thats 42v . Is your breaker 42v ?

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I have only ever used the breaker on 6S boards. My 12 S build has a loop key.

I originally used a breaker switch for my EBoard just like the one in @lowGuido picture, and I HATED it so much! First off the biggest problem was how physically big it is, so much so that I had to mount it on my board outside of the enclosure. After a lot of riding the thing started to fall apart, not only from the vibrations but from water damage. Eventually i was riding down the street on a brick road which is a horrible idea FYI, and the vibrations were bad enough that the pins holding it together fell out and the thing literally fell apart while I was riding it lol. Anyways point is I hated it so much and I wish I had originally just gone with a better quality switch like my MOSFET Switch im using now. One thing ive learned is dont be a cheap ass with EBoards, or electronics in general, because it never pays off and you just end up spending more money in the long run.

Personally I hate MOSFET switches I consider them dangerous because you can never really physically turn them off, only logicaly. I only will use a physical switch like a loop key or a breaker. Which has been working on my board for over 2 years of hard riding now without falling apart. Having said that I dont like how big they are, and they arent rated for more than 6S. So… not the best solution.

just a follow up… been using DC breakers for years now and My mate finally broke one…


How they break? I am using breaker also

I think the replacement will not cost too much. Recently i wish to try another type of switch.

6 pins of switch. 25a per pin. So i connect two off and two pin on. Not sure work or not.

This one looks tough. I have no idea how long it would last.


nothing test components better than direct contact with concrete at speed.

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I think your breaker will be fine, tucked up under the truck like that… its not going to hit the ground.

The automotive 80-100 amp breakers are fine at 6s, anything over and they don later long. If you want to go the XT-90s route you can get and XT-90 panel mount and XT-90 cap and keyring cover…Looks good.

XT90s https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/AMASS-XT90S-XT90-S-Connector-Female/dp/B01DK98USQ&ved=0ahUKEwiDve3FxovSAhVl8IMKHbY0CZkQFghiMBA&usg=AFQjCNHb1LnOm3A5VCFFK8n1X9V_Agws-g&sig2=5GdG1m3htyrqbJuKDvJWtg

XT-90 panel mount

XT-90 cap and key ring cover