What’s the difference between a 6354 190KV and a 6355 180KV motor?

So this is my first time posting here and building an electric skateboard, I bought a used esc and battery (6s2p and a simple esc from China), anyways, I bought a new motor from flipsky (6354 190 KV) and noticed that my board only goes 12-15 mph (15 being the absolute max). I’m not sure if it’s the used battery or just the 6354 motor? Can anyone help me out figuring this out? Thank you.


6354 is a naming convention. Most of the time its the outer length and width of a motor, in this case 63mm long and 54mm wide. But some manufacturers go by the length and width of the stator which makes things confusing.

Kv is basically RPM per volt. So if you ran a motor with 180kv at 10 volts and a full throttle pwm signal you’d get 1,800 RPM. And thats if a motor ran at 100% efficiency which they dont. In the real world you can expect anywhere from 85% to 92% efficiency.

Just using those numbers doesnt give a good comparison of one motor to the next. There are many factors that determine how fast and powerful a brushless motor is. Theres the shape of the magnets, the thickness and number of strands of copper wire, the strength of the magnets as well as the air gap between the magnets and the stator, among other things.

I’m guessing you were expecting a faster maximum speed. Not sure why your board only goes 15mph, could be any number of things. Does that used battery give you the range you were expecting?


Oh yeah, the range is exactly how it’s advertised to be, around 12-15 miles. I got some advice from Reddit saying that I should get a motor with a higher kv rating, I’m not sure what to do but I think I might start with upgrading the motor and we’ll just have to see what happenes then, unless you have some advice ? Sorry if my English is a bit bad, English was not my first language.

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sum is wrong mofo i got some meh 5xxx motors and they get me to atleast 45kmh


Length and girth. :rofl::rofl: And about 10 dollars


No worries about the english. I only speak one language so you’re doing much better than I am, lol.

I’m getting a mixed message from your comments though. Is it top speed in mph (miles per hour) or range (total miles per charge) that you’re concerned with?

If its a higher speed then yes, either changing the mechanical gearing by way of smaller pinion or larger main gear, or slightly increasing the motor kv might be in order.

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Put that coke can away, mister! Theres ladies browsing the forums.


Oh, I meant range, I can go 12-15 miles until I need to charge it again

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I do NOT recommend that.

While it would increase your top speed, it would also decrease your torque.

(less power, more speed)

But the bad part is that you would be at a dead-end.

The motors you have now, they are really good for a 10S or 12S battery setup. Getting a higher Kv motor is going backwards.

I recommend this:

  • keep motors
  • when you can, get a better ESC that can do 12S (but use with 6S battery)
  • when you can, get a better battery that is 10S or 12S

(in this order)

Then you can upgrade in steps. If you buy high Kv motors, then you cannot ever make it better after that.


Ok thank you, can you recommend me a decent esc that can do 12s?

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It depends on your budget and future plans, there were so many new ESCs to hit the market in the last year…

and it depends how good you want it to be, depends if you want to make it waterproof… depends on how much space you have… and your budget of course… if you’re okay with used stuff or only want new things… et cetera

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Hello, I’ve been doing a lot of research and my budget is around $1000 or so because I want a good solid build. Can you please just let me know if I chose the right parts, I really don’t want to mess up and order the wrong esc for the wrong motors and have the board blow up while riding it because first off my parents would be mad as hell (I’m only 15) and secondly, this is money I’ve been saving for almost 2 and a half years.

Drivetrain with dual motors: https://flipsky.net/collections/groups/products/group-t5-diy-electric-skateboard-double-kingpin-trucks-and-motor-kits-dual-drive

Esc: https://www.mboards.co/collections/escs/products/focbox-unity

Battery: https://www.mboards.co/products/12s2p-complete-battery-solution?_pos=5&_sid=296a8b618&_ss=r

Remote: https://flipsky.net/products/screen-remote-vx2-for-electric-skateboard-ebike-eboat-compatible-with-vesc

Get a duck battery systems battery. And a vx1 remote. Be good to go then.

Not at all.

Never buy your battery before your enclosure, which wasn’t even mentioned

Also mboards sells complete garbage. They excel at SEO

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You can get a battery before enclosure. Then you know exactly what you are working with. It can go either way I suppose. I forget most people actually buy parts instead of making them.

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If I could be of assistance, it would be to choose your items in a certain order. Don’t choose anything else until you’ve chosen your deck and enclosure. Because you need to know if it will even fit. Enclosures are much more difficult than you think, and you need to know if flexibility will be something you design for, or not. So go in a certain order, along the whole way making sure you choose things that are compatible with each other.

  1. helmet
  2. deck + enclosure (flex?)
  3. battery (flex?)
  4. ESC(s)
  5. drivetrain & trucks & motor mount
  6. wheels
  7. motors
  8. {everything else}
  9. remote
  10. aesthetics: grip, colors, lights

Leaving enclosures until last as an afterthought is a surefire way to end up in a less-than-ideal position.


If you value your money, I don’t recommend this. Unless you’re going to make your own enclosure, in which case, I strongly recommend doing that BEFORE purchasing a battery.

Eyeballing a battery and knowing its dimensions can’t hurt, just don’t buy it yet.

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Everyone is entitled to there opinions. Just like everyone is entitled to listening to suggestions. My list would be:

1- helmet (ill give you that one because pushing safety is no joke) 2- deck 3- drive train, (motors, trucks,mounts) 4-battery/esc 5-enclosure (I make my own or for whoever asks for one) 6-solder cause I always run out 7- more bearings 8-make it pretty (frit, grip, paint a lame ass sticker)

Now the reason I like having components first, I don’t like restrictions to a certain space. It’s like putting a door in an old house. You enclose around it. Another thing, depending on the deck, motors in or out, that will dictate enclosure size/shape. As much as I love kicktails and appreciate your builds, you’ve mastered the old school pool ripper. And that’s not for everyone.:slightly_smiling_face::call_me_hand:

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Your country isn’t on your profile, so I’m assuming USA…

Mboards is crap, you should avoid them. There are many USA sellers that are better, @ZachTetra or @longhairedboy or Duck Battery Systems are a few.

Also the Samsung 30Q cell used to be one of the best 18650 but in 2021 the Molicel P26A will outperform the 30Q. The lower your P count, the more it matters. In 2P cell depths, you really want some good cells, it becomes much more important.

There are also a few great options in the 21700 form factor, like Molicel P42A.

But buying a battery without a deck and enclosure to put it in yet is not recommended.

In 21700 is this something you would do 10s2p? Or keep pcount higher?