Ok thank you, can you recommend me a decent esc that can do 12s?
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It depends on your budget and future plans, there were so many new ESCs to hit the market in the last year…
and it depends how good you want it to be, depends if you want to make it waterproof… depends on how much space you have… and your budget of course… if you’re okay with used stuff or only want new things… et cetera
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Hello, I’ve been doing a lot of research and my budget is around $1000 or so because I want a good solid build. Can you please just let me know if I chose the right parts, I really don’t want to mess up and order the wrong esc for the wrong motors and have the board blow up while riding it because first off my parents would be mad as hell (I’m only 15) and secondly, this is money I’ve been saving for almost 2 and a half years.
Drivetrain with dual motors: https://flipsky.net/collections/groups/products/group-t5-diy-electric-skateboard-double-kingpin-trucks-and-motor-kits-dual-drive
Esc: https://www.mboards.co/collections/escs/products/focbox-unity
Battery: https://www.mboards.co/products/12s2p-complete-battery-solution?_pos=5&_sid=296a8b618&_ss=r
Get a duck battery systems battery. And a vx1 remote. Be good to go then.
Not at all.
Never buy your battery before your enclosure, which wasn’t even mentioned
Also mboards sells complete garbage. They excel at SEO
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You can get a battery before enclosure. Then you know exactly what you are working with. It can go either way I suppose. I forget most people actually buy parts instead of making them.
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If I could be of assistance, it would be to choose your items in a certain order. Don’t choose anything else until you’ve chosen your deck and enclosure. Because you need to know if it will even fit. Enclosures are much more difficult than you think, and you need to know if flexibility will be something you design for, or not. So go in a certain order, along the whole way making sure you choose things that are compatible with each other.
- helmet
- deck + enclosure (flex?)
- battery (flex?)
- ESC(s)
- drivetrain & trucks & motor mount
- wheels
- motors
- {everything else}
- remote
- aesthetics: grip, colors, lights
Leaving enclosures until last as an afterthought is a surefire way to end up in a less-than-ideal position.
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If you value your money, I don’t recommend this. Unless you’re going to make your own enclosure, in which case, I strongly recommend doing that BEFORE purchasing a battery.
Eyeballing a battery and knowing its dimensions can’t hurt, just don’t buy it yet.
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Everyone is entitled to there opinions. Just like everyone is entitled to listening to suggestions. My list would be:
1- helmet (ill give you that one because pushing safety is no joke) 2- deck 3- drive train, (motors, trucks,mounts) 4-battery/esc 5-enclosure (I make my own or for whoever asks for one) 6-solder cause I always run out 7- more bearings 8-make it pretty (frit, grip, paint a lame ass sticker)
Now the reason I like having components first, I don’t like restrictions to a certain space. It’s like putting a door in an old house. You enclose around it. Another thing, depending on the deck, motors in or out, that will dictate enclosure size/shape. As much as I love kicktails and appreciate your builds, you’ve mastered the old school pool ripper. And that’s not for everyone.
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Your country isn’t on your profile, so I’m assuming USA…
Mboards is crap, you should avoid them. There are many USA sellers that are better, @ZachTetra or @longhairedboy or Duck Battery Systems are a few.
Also the Samsung 30Q cell used to be one of the best 18650 but in 2021 the Molicel P26A will outperform the 30Q. The lower your P count, the more it matters. In 2P cell depths, you really want some good cells, it becomes much more important.
There are also a few great options in the 21700 form factor, like Molicel P42A.
But buying a battery without a deck and enclosure to put it in yet is not recommended.
In 21700 is this something you would do 10s2p? Or keep pcount higher?
That depends on what enclosure and deck I was putting it in. Which one?
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Lol come on man. The smallest I would do is 10s4p in anything. Minimum.
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Yes, my country is USA. I was wondering If the battery’s you mentioned have a built in bms and charging port. Honestly, I don’t want to solder or any of that.
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If you don’t want to solder, you might consider buying a prebuilt board or a used DIY board.
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Surly there is a way of doing it plug and play right?
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Yea. It’s called a boosted. Lol but really any custom builder will make you whatever you want. So technically plug and play is a thing.
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I just bought a soldering iron, and I’m going to take your advice to buy a vesc and then a battery after that. I’m planning on running my board with one motor, can I use the torque boards single vesc ?
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Yes the TB6 would be good for a single drive.
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That being the case, dont shoot for high speed. Shoot for twenty, go 10s. Keep the motors. Get a used vesc. And a new battery. By new, I mean, you know EVERYTHING that goes in there. For instance, I got a 24v SO CALLED electric vehicle battery, FROM CHINA. They left off one very important fact. The BMS only lets thru 15amps. So, the board goes, BUT, it only goes 12 to 15 tops. And low getty up. I had previously thought, that a BMS either doles out the juice, or shuts it off. It actually does affect that juice it does not shut off. Must have at least 30amp sustained amp battery, for skateboards.
So, get a used, for instance, 4.20 flipsky vesc. Dual. then find a used 10s battery. You are done. Till you find the right used parts, ride at 15mph.
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