What to build on a 600 dollar budget

It seems like there are many people out there that find out about the Boosted Board or Evolve but can’t afford them and go looking for cheaper solutions. They often run into some offshoot Chinese brands like Koowheel or the Yuneec E-GO. That got me thinking, what would I build instead of buying one of those? I decided to write this for anyone in that position that is wondering what they can build for similar cost. The budget is 600 USD since that is what these decks usually go for, and I’m cheating a little by disregarding shipping since you’d have to pay that on a complete as well.

I’d get my parts from Hobbyking, Amazon and Torqueboards since they offer well tested parts at reasonable prices.

At Hobbyking I’d get:

2x 5S 8000mAh Batteries

1x 6374 168kV Motor

1x GT2B Remote

1x Turnigy B6 Compact Charger

Before shipping these parts come out to roughly $215 USD. Turnigy SK3s have been used in tons of builds and seem to work fine, same with zippy batteries. The GT2B is also used quite often, and has a variety of mods to choose from if you would like to make your controller more compact. However you would need to suffer some inconvenience since the charger can only charge one of the batteries at a time. Also, to save the cost of buying a switch you could make an XT90s loop key (just search it on the forums).

From Amazon I’d get:

1x Caliber 2 Trucks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QNP09N4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A09135573LH764KW2KA0X

1x 83mm Flywheel Clones


These parts come out to roughly 65 USD. You can get each of these in a variety of colors and they are an inexpensive option that is compatible with most mount and wheel pulley setups including Torqueboards hardware.

Lastly from Torqueboards I’d get:

1x VESC Speed Controller


1x Single Motor Mount


1x Wheel and Motor Pulley Kit


That comes out to roughly 205 USD. Personally I use these parts and haven’t had any issues so that is what I’d recommend. Make sure you choose the 16T motor pulley option, and the 63mm motor mount. Keep in mind that the connectors that come with the parts may not be perfect for each other and you’d have to solder on new ones.

215 + 65 + 205= 485 USD

That leaves you with 115 USD to build or buy an enclosure and deck along with other expenses you may encounter. In my opinion, the most important part of your build is the deck you choose, it defines how your board will ride and you can choose whatever you want to suit your style.

For inexpensive blank decks check out www.skateshred.com and for the enclosure get creative! There are many different things you can us. Lunchboxes, small part organizers and fiberglass/carbon fiber enclosures are common.

This build’s specs would be a top speed of roughly 35km/h and a range of roughly 30km. You’d also get to choose from any deck you’d like, and customize your wheel and truck setup. After putting it together yourself, you’d be able to fix anything that may go wrong, and on top of that you get the satisfaction of having built something by yourself, for yourself.

If I missed anything let my know and I’ll update the post. Also, what would you do differently?


I like that charger very much…

Suuuupppper simple… cheapest and simplest I’ve found. I find it doesn’t charge it to the max…but I think thats a good thing

Biggest draw back…no read out… but you can always double check with a 6s battery alarm monitor

hmm, at first i was skeptical at your range and speed but 10s1p 8000mah is 288 watt hours, that’s actually pretty good and 140 for deck and enclosure is plenty, considering you can get blank decks very inexpensively from wholesalers (around $40 a deck)



could those zippys be wired into a bms to make for easier charging and higher safety?

10s 8000mah

He’s gonna get far … so you won’t have issues…only that you’ll be tired lol

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I get tired after ten miles of riding!


Yea at a good clip I’m good for 7miles … then it’s miller time lol

Yeah, I hadn’t realized they made a compact B6 until I searched it on Hobbyking, definitely a nice option.

Right now I’m using the same battery setup and getting lots more range than I need. Also, I forgot to mention but If you want to sacrifice a little torque for higher top speed you can get the 192kV version and bump it up to 40km/h.

@NickTheDude I’d try the mini remote to keep every compact …

I don’t think there’s a need to use those unless you get a case mod


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I think this should be pinned! @lox897 can you do that?

Otherwise im not sure how easy it is to find this thread for the newbeginners!

Very easy to read / simple to understand info!


It is a very useful thread, but I will have to get the other mods opinions of it being worthy to get pinned :slight_smile:

Just wondering why the 168kv and not the 192kv? What will be the difference? I see allot of 10s 190kv set-ups.

I’d like to know cause I’m building a board right now and still in doubt about the motor. I’m sure I won’t go fast, but I would like some nice range. What would be the better motor for that situation?

Thanks for the post.

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@mptrs Good question! I just found out recently that high kv motors seem to consume more power (amps) to travel the same distance as ‘‘stronger’’ / lower kv rating motors!

It looks like they can reach higher speed with the same voltage (compared to lower kv)… but just consume more energy in general.

I could post a recent build log from instructables… where he used 300kv motor, had something like 40kph speed with 6s system and a boat esc! He did have pretty ‘‘terrible’’ range… will go to look it up.

Seen that one, was a guy from Holland. Think someone wanted to buy his board and was asking if it was any good on the forum.

So low kv should be more efficient? Would be better for me than, cause I don’t need high speed. But still wondering if 190kv (or 192) would be the save bet, cause it’s in between. It’s not really high and not really low either.

Thanks for the info tho.

There won’t be a noticable difference in range between a 170 and 190 kv, if there is any. I get the same range out of my 245’s as i got from the 190’s. The motors will use pretty much the same amount of energy if geared properly.

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kV is essentially RPM per volt. So a lower kV motor will go slower than a higher kV motor on the same voltage. What you gain by lowering kV is torque. It has the exact same effect as changing your gear ratio. The difference between 168kV and 192kV is about 5km/h.

Since this is a single motor build, I sacrificed some top speed for increased torque and hill climbing ability.

The efficiency (heat generation) of the motor stays the same regardless of kV. Thus if you had a 100kV motor with 1:1 gearing, you would (theoretically) have the same results as a 200kV motor with 2:1 gearing.

Thanks for the info.

I’m from the Netherlands so I don’t really need the hill climbing ability hehe. Not sure if I need the torque either.

But with this info I can make a more informed choice. Thanks again.

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Soom good info!

@Iceni Well, but with the same gearing ratio for both motors… you will get different torque/speed… So shouldnt it be, that 190kv motor with, let’s say 2:1 gearing would achieve better efficiency at the same speed?

I think this is a matter of ‘‘fine line’’…

the price of batteries will go up $70 as soon as it goes off sale btw

well, are hobbyking’s sales like a newegg or amazon sale? as in its just perpetually marked down over time?