I’ve set up a 1/2" riser combo ( 1/4" rubber Khiro and 1/4 hard plastic). I took the Jet Hot Potato out for a push and even with the risers managed to get some wheel bite. I am 195lbs and the trucks were pretty loose so I wasn’t totally surprised. Also I’ve shifted the wheel base in about 2" in past factory mounts which has taken about 3 mm off the wheel well clearance.
Where I am a bit perplexed is in mounting the Enertion mount I’ve noticed that the R Spec will also be having clearance issues under the deck. Sitting straight on the trucks I currently have about 12mm clearance between the motor and the deck.
What are other people’s running clearance on this sort of setup? Any observations based on the photos would be appreciated.
Edit: i wonder if it’s a simple as the 1/2 micro drop causing the problems? How much clearance are others running?
Thanks yes, I thought that would be one way to go but I would prefer to keep the angle where its at currently.It just seems like the 12 mm would have been enough. @whitepony I notice you’ve run angled risers on your topspeed, is that for wheel clearance or truck angle?
Im running them on tesseract and most likely spud too. its either 1/2" flat riser with 50s or 6degree 1/2" angled risers with 44s. difference is: the angled version drives the same, but looks miles better.
It looks like you have close to 20mm clearance? So far I have 50* calibers, 1/2" flat risers and a small angle angle already inherent in the hot potato. 3/4" riser is the next step I guess? Maybe 1/4" plus a 1/2 angled?
tbh, your motor clearance looks fine! my tesseract clearance could be a little less really! aside from that I got the very same problem with the jet spud - 1/8" and 1/4" riser on 44s were wheel biting. 1/8" on 50s calibers were also biting, my longer screws should arrive today, then Ill try the 6° angled 1/2" rubber riser with 44s. its pretty annoying cause I like the 44° truck angle on the spud. last resort is flat 1/2" rubber riser, but that looks always pretty stupid imo.
problem for you is that you have 50s trucks - shouldnt really angle them in the way I did unless you have to make up for super large wheelbases. youll notice the 6° quite a bit, board is getting a lot more turny. its basically as if you would ride with 56° calibers.
dont think that even exists. you should change your truck bushings first imo - for your weight maybe something between 90-95A, maybe 95A boardside, 90A roadside or so. Im running 93A roadside, 87A roadside, double barrel. alone switching caiber stock cone with a barrel helps a lot imo. not sure what the enertion clones are equipped with.
Thanks man, based on your comments, I am wondering if this has more to do with my truck tightness and how far I am expecting the board to carve? After owning a longer wheelbase deck in the past and dealing with its limitations I am perhaps asking too much turning radius. I’ve tighten up the truck even further to limit the lean and it certainly helps. I just want to have total confidence when riding so I am not thinking about holding back on turns or whatever.
I am going to look for a harder bushing and perhaps take a small scallop out of the area where the motor could hit. Just a small groove about a ply or two
Cheers… I look forward to seeing what you resolve for the spud!
the angled risers worked as expected - strong lean like from a crazy pothole or a screwed up landing leaves about 5mm room between wheel and board. ill try later tonight how the board rides with 44+6degree calibers, im almost sure it will be too turny for me but ah well, maybe it fits aboard for tricks quite well.
Can anyone confirm confirm if I’ve actually set up the motor mount correctly? I’ve just finished modifying my deck (widened my wheel wells) and it struck me that the motor sits pretty much sits flushed with base plate?
I have the mount sitting on my heel side and angled as far down as possible (note the slot on the carbon plate).
Yeah, I’ve done all that but it struck me as off that without risers the motor would be angled so close to parallel with the baseplate. I am going to be running a 1/2 of risers and it still comes close when turning toe side.
@Maxid Custom treatment in garage. Stripped the anodized finish primed and enamel painted. It looks damn good.
I’m running 5/16"risers and the mount just barely touches the board, but i have to turn very hard to get it to; to a point where the board will nearly flip if i keep turning. I’m running the same setup as you.
I think I’ll be okay now that I’ve scolloped out a small section of ply right under the mount. This might all be a result of the the 1/4" drop on the hot potato. It runs fine with moderate turning, it just when I really leaned in the mount touched at the carbon plate side.
At the end of the day I think it’s fair to say no matter what deck you have, you need a minimum of 1/4" risers with the positioning of this mount.
I love the strength and light weight CF, but if I had to choose again I’d probably go with torqueboards v4 mount. I think the ability to rotate to the exact angle you want is too valuable to sacrifice.
