Hey there!
Where can I purchase a pulley for flywheel clones like the one Enertion offers? They have a great product and are an awesome company, it’s just the shipping costs to Vegas from Australia are more than the product’s cost. Anything would be helpful!
Side note: After messing with the aluminum wheel pulley with the bolts I’m noticing I can’t get it to be flush or level with the wheel. It’s been causing a small vibration in the motor.
@nmagz3 - Whose pulleys are you running? Are they ours? We did a batch of these (our own) but personally, I didn’t like them as much as the aluminum pulleys (so didn’t follow through with it). It’s fairly simple to get the aluminum pulleys aligned. Not sure, if you are using ours or not though.
Enertion has them on sale now and/or perhaps Michaelvegas has a few left overs?
Actually, they are yours Dexter! It’s by no means anything wrong with the product. It’s just that when I screwed them in I rethreaded the hole incorrectly. I like the design and simplicity of the plastic wheel pulleys and saw the Enertion ones were on sale! It’s just that the shipping is more than the product it self.
What didn’t you like about your batch? I’m sure you took the same steps as Jason had. I’ll actually be seeing @Michaelinvegas tonight. I’ll find out what his opinion is on the plastic over the aluminum.
@nmagz3 - Try drilling 3 bolts from the back all the way into the wheel that way the pulley is 100% seated. Then drill the 3 opposite from the front and then remove the back. That way it’s all nicely done. A drill is very helpful. Even if it’s rethreaded incorrectly it shouldn’t matter. You can also spin the wheel with bearings and see if it’s naturally lopsided. If you got it from us, we’ll replace it for you not typical though.
I think I like the heavy aspect of the drive wheel pulley. The plastic pulley was really lightweight. Mostly, just personal preference… but I get it… Assembling a ton of drive wheels on wheels w/ bolts is a ton of time compared to a snap in pulley so still thinking about it lol.
Ahh ok. When you drill are you using a wood drill bit to predrill the whole? Also, when screwing in the bolt are you doing it by hand or with the drill also?
I guess in theory the lighter and easier option is what attracted me to the plastic wheel pulley. But, I’ll take your word for it. I’d rather save money then spend it on an inferior tech than what I already have.
Haha, have fun with all the assembling!
The bolts we supply are fully threaded. Yours should be. Just make sure you have a drill and not an impact driver (impact driver will stop and won’t drill through) I think.
The bolt itself will just thread itself through. If I didn’t have fully threaded bolts, you would need to clear the inside a bit.
I couldn’t imagine doing it by hand… Would be like a 15-20 minute ordeal 
I always seem to drop the hex key lol.
Try it again… no use in spending more money if you don’t have too. You can send it over and I’ll do it for you if you want.
Thanks Dexter! I’ll give it a try again. LOL, this’ll be my 3rd wheel. I may consider sending it your way if I don’t get it right.
@torqueboards Are you saying that before installing your metal wheel pulleys the wheel should be slightly drilled out before inserting the bolts into the wheel? I’ve installed your wheel pulley on 4 separate wheels and every time but one I could barely get the last bolt to go all the way in. It literally took all the force I could put on the allen key to get it to turn until it was snug.
@pennyboard - No, I’m saying that the wheel doesn’t have to be drilled out at all. We use fully threaded bolts so the bolt will thread through itself. It’s best to have a drill + metric hex bit to do the work for you.
Oh yeah that makes sense. Doing it by hand makes your hands hurt by the end of it.
Check out @longhairedboy’s insert style pulleys! You can chose the number of teeth you want too. Not limited to 36T.
Don’t the Enertion type pulleys require cutting a chunk out of the truck hanger to make the axle bolt long enough?
you’ll need to shave about 8mm off of the hanger, and make sure you add a speed ring between the hanger and pulley bearing.
The best way to do it if you’ve never done it before is to measure in 8mm from the end of the hanger in a few different spots, mark your spot with a fine tip sharpie, then use tape to make the line you will follow. If you’re using a dremel, make sure you use the reinforced cutting wheel, not the little ones, they’ll shatter repeatedly.
ITs pretty easy to tell when you get to the steel axle. WHEN YOU SEE SPARKS, STOP IMMEDIATELY. Aluminum won’t throw sparks, but steel will. THe microsecond that you see a spark throw, stop and move on.
This video shows the technique i used to chop an enertion truck for use with an Evolve pulley, which requires a lot more than 8mm, but the idea is the same:
So, to save money I’ve decided not to purchase the plastic hub wheel pulley. My solution to the Torqboard wheel pulley is to use clamps on 2 sides to keep the pulley and wheel from shifting while I screw the bolt in. I’m pretty sure the clamps will keep it flush to the wheel. Thanks for everyone’s input!
Totally agree! Got one of dem too 
