I would edit your first post so it dosnt give newcomers the wrong idea. I have used 3d printed pulleys countless times and this appears to be user error. So maybe you can say what not to do to help people not have your problem (PLA & friction)
8 Likes
Me too, Iāve been using 3D printed ABS wheel pulleys for months on multiple boards, never seen anything like that.
2 Likes
Yea I print my own with no issues. Did you use bolts to hold it in place as well or did you only rely on just the 3D print to hold in place.
Michael, Iāve used printed pulley from ABS, Nylon and some other more esoteric materials available in spools of filament.
A few quick suggestionsā¦ Reprint your part at 25% infill (I was on the phone with Mike C while I was reading this so I know your setup) and instead of using it, smooth it with a heatless humidifier and isopropyl alcohol (put the print on an old 33 turn table or motorized lazy Susan to ensure mist is evenly distributedā¦ that will remove the print lines, and artifacts - finallyā¦ get some plaster of Paris and some āMagic Clayā aka play dough and google creating a mold for casting resin with POP and Magic Clay, then call your local auto parts supplier (not pep boys or royal auto a part supplier and get some gear resin mix (google again) and after the mold dries (shit print at 3% over size to account for resin shrinkage and curingā¦
Now mix the resin and pour the mold, 4 hours later you can free the part and 24 hours later you can use itā¦ same shit as epoxy rules so, if you can fire the resin then the temperature and length of firing to cure the resin will directly effect itās tensile strength, hardness and temperature stability for automotive environment (under hood in summer motor running, car not) which TRUST ME BRO, will never, ever fail you.
Or find someone with a small foundary and have them smelt some 6061 aluminum bar stock filets down, remove the slag (I personally smelt at 1800F which is about 600F above the melting point of aluminum and lets me expose and remove any impurities in the alloy before pouring it into a voided mold made with PLA and burned out in the microwave for 10 minutes till the PLA vaporizes leaving behind the perfect mold to pour the aluminum into to cast your parts (hint, hintā¦ I can smelt and cast stainless in my forge)
Hope this helps you bud, send me a msg if you have any questoins or want clarificationā¦ I could alternatively throw them in one of my print beds and make a few materials to be tested from filament spools I have on hand which are known to produce survivable parts with a decent service life.
-Mike
1 Like
PLA filaments for me tend to melt and become extrudable at a lower temperature than ABS (around 180Ā°C to 220Ā°C) and is actually harder than ABS, also has a glass transition temperature between 60-65 Ā°C, so is potentially a very useful material. It does exhibit higher friction than ABS
Combined with your belts and eRPM (and the ambient heat) yea, you way exceeded the intended use of ABSā¦
-Mike
???
That doesnāt make sense, as you dont know what belts I use or what the ERPM is on my board(s)ā¦Am I missing something?
my large pulley is printed in PETG, 100km so far, about 45min of contious usage, not signs of wear at all my small one is ABS, same usage, no usage at all.
tbh, i think you scrwed something up somwhere/somehow.
Yes, youāre right there was a misprint I was saying you way over did it for PLA filament objects 
Sorry guys Iām on my way to Manhattan or Iām gonna meet up with a couple of guys from the threads including with a little Kaly.nyc and pick up a sweet trampa buildā¦
Sad but true Iām just leaving Philadelphia I had to make a pitstop I have one iPad Pro three cell phones within my line of sight and yes Iām using them all as I drive difficult because Iām so damn excited ( and to be perfectly honest a little bit anxious I havenāt been in New York since 911 )
But I seriously, you printed 50% and fill in PLA material and because PLA is harder and has more friction or generates more friction then its counterpart ABS and also cause itās nonflexible which is why it generates more friction, it melted Aka āIndian rope burnā please donāt take me the wrong way I donāt mean disrespect Iām not messing with you I have so many failures before I succeed in fact I one time printed a chain ring out of PLA now this was just for filament and I managed to crack like eight or nine of the teeth just putting the chain on it 
I wish I had seen this thread before I left my house in the burbs a Philly auto brought some filament and I are giving it to you or give it to Mike to give to you for better results than the PLA stuff
I got confused because you replied to the wrong person :). I print mine with ABS 100% infill. It was @michaeld33 that had the melting issue.
I have over 800 miles on ABS and Nylon pulleys. You probably have some real cheap filament.
Iām having problems getting my nylon pulley to stay on the motor. How do you mount your 3d printed pulleys?
1 Like
You mean the wheel pulley? Do you have a picture?
No, I mean the motor pulley. It keeps falling off the shaft. No problems with teeth or anything, it just wonāt stay on the shaft.
3D printed pulleys for motor is not commonly used, do you have a picture?
I donāt currently, I just finished the printing a new motor mount. Itās only temporary until I can afford metal ones. Iāve heard people be successful, but only with nylon or polycarbonate. I will hopefully upload a photo tomorrow
Put a grub screw or two in and use some thread lock, some just run with threadlock if need 24h to cure properly. POM/nylon/petg may have a chance to not strip teeth for a while, better to use an extra tooth like 16T to help spread the load a bit more.
You sure you canāt spring for $5 for alloy gear
Bro, you are getting ripped of with that ridiculous price!
I got some aluminium ones for $2!
threadlock dissolves plastic
Iām including shipping, ah and yes threadlock will eat plastic true
1 Like